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Zharkov 06-29-2008 09:05 PM

Tub surround shower door issues
I hope an expert here can answer this one. If not, I'll have to go back to Lowes and try again to make sense to them.

We have a 5'x30" tub. Just ripped out old tile and drywall to put up a new surround and doors. The surround (Sterling Performa) is a direct-to-stud system. It also has little tabs on the bottom that would insert into a new Sterling tub. We're keeping our old tub, so I'm assuming we just remove those?

The big problem will be installing the shower doors. If we nail up the surround side wall, cover the flange with drywall and then try to place the shower door jamb, we will have a large gap. It's difficult to describe, so here's a diagram I made.

This is a top view. You can see that the surround side wall thickness falls right at the center of the stud. So, the inside of the door jamb will rest on the surround and the outside will not. I'm assuming many people add doors to this type of surround. What do you use to fill the gap? Or am I doing something terribly wrong?

Alan 06-30-2008 09:12 AM

doesn't the jamb usually go all the way to the outside edge of the shower? Either that or the inside?

i've only ever seen one before and i'm trying to recall.........

clasact 06-30-2008 09:41 AM

just by going on what you have in the pic. I would say you should have built the stud wall out more like a double stud and the wall that the door will sit on then it would sit right next to the tub surround and waterproof/caulk between the surround and the door jamb.From what you have I don't see how your going to attach the door jamb to the side wall.I could be wrong but I don't think you have enough stud to attach to or am I misunderstanding your picture?

Zharkov 06-30-2008 10:04 AM

Well, the door bottom rail needs to line up on the center of the tub wall. The jamb will fall centered on the stud, it's just that I'm going to need some type of support to fill the gap (wood most likely) indicated by the arrow.

What I plan to do is install the surround then drywall. Then cut a strip of wood to attach to the stud. Paint it to match the surrounding wall, then mount the door jamb which will be supported by the surround and the wood strip. Sound like a plan or no???

clasact 06-30-2008 03:17 PM

Maybe I am not understanding you but I think I am.If this is your plan I don't see it working very long.The surround is fiberglass correct its not made for supporting the door.If you put wood in the gap its going to get wet and fail and that drywall ideal is going to turn to mush from the tub/shower.I think your trying to make two parts that are not meant to go together work and from your drawing the only way I see that working is to bring to door out a bit so it attachés to the wall next to the surround then you can caulk between them and keep the water away from your drywall and wood.I may be missing something here but from your drawing and what you have said thats my take on it

tribe_fan 06-30-2008 03:40 PM

I went and looked at mine -and the door frame is completely over the fiberglass ( which hangs out a bit), and the track lined up on the inside edge of the tub.

If I were you I would line up the vertical supports so the outside is flush with the fiberglass and hope that the lower track does not hang over the inside.

The weight of the door is supported by the vertical frame, and that weight is on the tub. As long as you can hit the stud, you should be OK.

The other option would be to shim out the unit.

Zharkov 06-30-2008 04:10 PM

Thank you for the replies. Here's what a little more thought has brought.

I'm going to add new studs on both sides of the original. Add small shims to the back of the surround. The flange on the surround side wall will anchor into the new outside stud, the door jamb should rest fully on the surround and anchor to either the original stud (if it aligns properly) or the newer stud attached inside that. I may nt need new wood on both sides, but just in case I thought it won't hurt to add it and I may need it depending on how everything falls together.

New diagram.

Does this like a way to go?

Also, another question. I ripped out drywall and tile first. I did not remove the drywall all the way up to the ceiling. We have a textured ceiling and I didn't want to mess with recreating the texture that would be removed by taping, filling, sanding etc. The issue is that to add in drywall above the surround to where the original remains will require attaching a very narrow piece (about 5" wide). That doesn't sound like a good idea. Is there a more durable, water-resistant material that can be patched in that narrow area?

clasact 06-30-2008 04:35 PM

you new diagram looks much better and I belive it will work

as far as the wall if you can take out a bit more of the old it would work out better it would let you cut a bigger piece and be more stable. if your going back with tile you need to put in backer board and membrine

Zharkov 06-30-2008 04:54 PM

No tile, just drywall and paint. The area is maybe 4-5" wide and runs all along the top of the surround. What about shims, a strip of aluminum and spackle over that? Won't rust and should be very sturdy.

clasact 06-30-2008 05:03 PM

I dont know about that alumin ideal and personaly I dont like just drywall near a tub or shower but if thats what your going to do then I would just be carefull about cutting the rock and mudding it in but I dont think its going to last to long.Get a good primer that is mold and mildew resistant and a good paint

Zharkov 06-30-2008 08:20 PM

It is the green board drywall. Do you always put tile up or something else?

clasact 06-30-2008 08:34 PM

green-board is not meant for the tub shower area it is for the rest of the bath area.Yes I always put up tile or a full surround I have even done one in Corrina (the stuff they make counter tops with) I am doing one in my home now with natural stone with a shower from scratch, but I always stay away from anything that will absorb water in that area.Green-board is mold and mildew resistant not water resistant

Zharkov 06-30-2008 09:06 PM

That's interesting. I've been told to always use green board in that area. It is never directly exposed to running water, but it was the backer to a previous surround in our old house and was used behind and above our tile in this current set-up. I don't really want to rip out the existing greenboard on the wall and ceiling, so I'll forge ahead and hope for the best.

clasact 06-30-2008 09:19 PM

well good luck I hope it hold up for you but if it fails go under construction in this site and you will find several threads on the subject.Tile should be set in either a lath and thinest or cement backer board and thinest and both should use a waterproof membrane .Several threads even discourage against greenboard and recomend another product belive its the paperless drywall I would have to go back and look.

Zharkov 06-30-2008 10:52 PM

I have tiled several floors in our house (and even heated them per my wife's request), but never a wall. If it does eventually give out, at least it's a very small area to rip out and rework.

Thanks for the good advice. I posed this question on several well-known forums with no responses. I'll definitely be back.

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