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awizardalso 04-28-2008 04:32 AM

Tub to studs problem
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Greetings all, First, I'll explain where I'm at in the project. Original plan- remove old cast tub and replace with modern tub/shower built into alcove framing. Revised plan- replace cast iron drain system from vent stack to basement and everything in between (including one kitchen wall), all new supply lines and replace 1/2 bathroom floor including joists (and entire kitchen ceiling). OK, now I'm at the point of installing the tub. To start cutting costs, I bought a $100 enameled sheet steel tub and the tile lip isn't even. The tile lip is bent at 90 degree angles in the corners and along the center of the tub slanted at maybe 45 degrees, so when I push the tub up against the studs, there's a rather large gap (1/2") in the corners along the back wall. The problem I foresee at the moment is the gap along the center. I could notch out the center studs (easiest) so the tub slips back with the tub flush in the corners or furring out all the studs. Either way, it looks like there will be a gap between the wall and the tub lip in the center area. I could fill this with large bead of sealer before I secure the wall material in place. What would be the best option for dealing with a ~1/4" gap between the wall and the lip? Will a bead of silicone sealer be sufficient? I may be worrying over nothing, but at this point, I can't leave anything to chance. This is my first attempt at installing a tub and if I had any idea, I would have just put up a circular shower curtain around the original tub and an improvised shower with a garden hose. Appreciate any and all suggestions, short just of arson.

To help explain, I'm adding a sketch. The view is along the lip from an end. The lip angles outward in the center of the tub, which hits the studs keeping the corners roughly 1/2" out. If I use furring strips or notch the center studs, there will be a gap (circled) if the wall material is 1/4" up off the tub. Again, thank you for any advice.

RippySkippy 04-28-2008 07:18 AM

Is this a new tub? If so, have you called the MFG to see if this is normal with this tub or perhaps you got a "lemon". Either way, before making significant adjustments, I'd be doesn't sound right, most edges are 90* or close to it.

If the center is ~45*, is the edge of the tub straight? Meaning, if you put a 2x4 from corner to corner, does the drip edge push out beyond the straight line?

awizardalso 04-28-2008 11:49 AM

Yes, it's a new tub, but I've had it sitting around for several months so I'm not sure about being able to exchange it. I just recently finished the supply line plumbing and brought the tub in. Actually, it's the second tub from the same manufacturer and I've had two others besides (one damaged, second wouldn't fit anyway). The crease the lip folds from is straight, but if you could push the front end of the tub into the wall, the back end will move away from the wall. The end walls are tight enough that the tub just won't rock like that. If I notched out the center stud 1/2", then the ends would fit tight into the corners. This obviously isn't right, hence my question about using a sealer. This has been long, expensive project and I'm really getting so tired of the 'one thing after another' aspect of it all.

I'll contact the manufacturer and the point of purchase to check on my options. The first tub was boxed up damaged from the factory but I'd sat on it for so long before I opened it, I couldn't bring it back. Looks like I may eat a second one. There may be truth to the saying you get what you pay for.

Appreciate your time.

Get r done 04-28-2008 03:28 PM

I know what you mean about let's just get this done and trying to make bargains work. But , "hey Montgomery, it'll be real nice when it's done you'll see".. (that's from an ancient TV show).From your sketch it seems doing the notching and then caulking idea would be the best solution. Then your acrylic sheet or hardiback for tile would go over that and would prevent water from getting in there. I'd be sure to put plenty of adhesive between the caulking and your chosen surface to be sure. It might not be "by the book" but it seems like it will work and get it over with and you don't have to talk to the manufacturer anymore.

awizardalso 04-28-2008 04:47 PM

I used a piece of thread from corner to corner, the lip isn't at a 45, but it does lean out to a maximum of 5/16". A few days ago, I just threw my hands up in disgust and took a nap. The time seems to have exaggerated my memory. Two center studs appear to have warped out a little, the worst is 1/4", which only compounded the problem making it seem much worse than it is. The gap won't be as large as I thought once I get the stud issue figured out. I'm just so tired of dealing with this, I'm starting to come unglued too easily. Appreciate everyone's time.

RippySkippy 04-29-2008 07:27 AM

Hang in there man, you did the right thing by stepping away. Good luck to you, hope it all works out.

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