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-   -   Tub faucet leaking, having trouble removing collar (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/tub-faucet-leaking-having-trouble-removing-collar-162280/)

fetzer85 11-05-2012 01:21 PM

Tub faucet leaking, having trouble removing collar
 
Well last night after my daughter took a bath she told me the water wouldn't shut off all the way. We have the turn ball style where it just turns left for hot, right for cold, all the way right for off. It doesn't move up or down to control the flow, its either all or nothing. Anyways the knob.and cover are removed but I can't get the collar that appears to be holding the cartridge in place to turn or even budge. I have pics but my internet is down right now, posting from my phone and can't get tube image to attach. When I clamped down to loosen the collar, it started to bend the 'housing', or whatever you would call it, when turned it. Basically it turned the whole thing, so now its not sticking straight out anymore.

Without pics does anyone think they can give me any advice on how to proceed? We have an access panel in our bedroom where i can see the valve. I'd rather not replace the valve, its tight working area and the only time I've soldered copper pipe was to install a new toilet shutoff valve. Any input will be appreciated. If my internet comes back I will post pics. Thanks

John

joecaption 11-05-2012 03:24 PM

See if you can find it here and cut and paste the website.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...cets&FORM=IGRE

ben's plumbing 11-05-2012 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fetzer85 (Post 1045326)
Well last night after my daughter took a bath she told me the water wouldn't shut off all the way. We have the turn ball style where it just turns left for hot, right for cold, all the way right for off. It doesn't move up or down to control the flow, its either all or nothing. Anyways the knob.and cover are removed but I can't get the collar that appears to be holding the cartridge in place to turn or even budge. I have pics but my internet is down right now, posting from my phone and can't get tube image to attach. When I clamped down to loosen the collar, it started to bend the 'housing', or whatever you would call it, when turned it. Basically it turned the whole thing, so now its not sticking straight out anymore.

Without pics does anyone think they can give me any advice on how to proceed? We have an access panel in our bedroom where i can see the valve. I'd rather not replace the valve, its tight working area and the only time I've soldered copper pipe was to install a new toilet shutoff valve. Any input will be appreciated. If my internet comes back I will post pics. Thanks

John

hey john...sounds like you may have already damaged the assy....may be a delta ..it has a big ring that needs to be removed to get to cartridge and seats and springs...ben sr

fetzer85 11-05-2012 05:58 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Ah ha! I downloaded the app and its letting me attach the pics. So I guess the next question is, if I can't loosen the collar, what's the best route to take? I would rather not mess with the valve in the pic. If I keep twisting the collar and the housing breaks off, am I going to be up a creek?

It wouldn't be the first time, but its nice to know beforehand lol.

Fairview 11-05-2012 07:02 PM

That's where you'll find two hammers handy to break up the calcium deposits bond. Use one as a backer while tapping on the opposite side with the second. A little acid applied there may be advantageous too.

ben's plumbing 11-05-2012 08:51 PM

well you have to make a call on that one. use 2 pair channel locks one to loosen other to back up so you don't turn back part....grab the ring on the hardest part out towards front...ben sr

fetzer85 11-07-2012 07:54 AM

Well thanks for the advice, but the SOB broke off. Got all my supplies (I think) so we'll see how it goes today.

Thanks again.

oh'mike 11-07-2012 07:58 AM

Old plumbing----it keeps a guy humble-----good luck----replacing the mixer valve today?

fetzer85 11-07-2012 08:11 AM

Yes, at least that's the plan. It's a little unnerving for me with the torch in the tight space but I think I'll get it. The shower supply lines didn't have shutoff valves so I did get those on last night, so at least we had the toilet & sink. With a wife and three daughters though, dad's slow plumbing skills don't seem to be appreciated lol.

oh'mike 11-07-2012 08:19 AM

I suggest that you make up the assembly out side---then solder it in using couplings----


If you are using a mixer with threaded connections like the old one----solder the threaded fittings onto the pipes ---cool completely----then thread them in using TFE paste and Teflon tape----protect these from heat buy draping a wet rag over the fittings when soldering near them----

Heating a threaded fitting often causes a leak----so keep it cool----

fetzer85 11-07-2012 08:36 AM

Thanks, I didn't know that. I did get 4 of the 1/2" female thread to solder joint fittings for the valve. So you're saying solder my elbows onto the fittings along with the pipes that will be connecting to the shutoff valves, then thread them onto the fittings and screw them onto the valve? If so then I understand, but I don't know how I could do that with the shower pipe?

oh'mike 11-07-2012 08:59 AM

Make four stubs --about 10 inches long---solder the male fittings on them---cool---dope and tape those---then thread them into the valve----

hold that up to the existing valve----mark the old shower head pipe for a cut---mark the cuts for the 90s onto the valve assembly==

make the cuts---add the 90s and another short section going down---best to use a a threaded eared flange for the tub spout----

then solder up that---using a soaking wet rag to keep the threaded fittings cool----hold it in place again and mark the hot and cold risers to match your assembly==

clean--flux and install using couplings---You mentioned adding new shut offs---so these instructions might not be perfect---but you get the idea----get the valve and as much pipe soldered up first---then just solder the couplings inside the wall--

Protect the fiberglass with steel ---I use flat electrical box covers---cheap and easily available---and come with handy screw slots----

oh'mike 11-07-2012 09:21 AM

You should have purchased 6 male threaded fittings----I believe the Moen Valve you bought has a threaded tub spout----so you will need to make up a nipple to go from the threaded eared flange you are instaling for the tub spout---to the new spout.

fetzer85 11-07-2012 09:50 AM

Thanks for the advice.

You mentioned tape & liquid sealant for the threads. Do you put the tape on first then some liquid sealant over top of it? I've only ever done one or the other, not both.

oh'mike 11-07-2012 09:56 AM

I put the TFE paste on first--then wrap the Teflon tape over the top of the paste----

A leak at the valve is trouble----so I go 'over kill'---better safe than sorry----tightening that fitting after soldering requires taking the thing apart---so I am very careful with that connection---


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