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Old 03-17-2014, 12:50 AM   #1
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Tub drain removal


Have a old cast iron tub with a drain that prior owner took out the stop. If it doesn't have the machining for the removal tools what is the best way to get it loose so I can replace it with something that will allow me to close the drain?

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Old 03-17-2014, 12:56 AM   #2
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What do you mean by the machining?
Why can you not just replace the old stop?
Google "drain removal tool"
Any Box store has one that expands to fit three different size drains.

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Old 03-17-2014, 01:24 AM   #3
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Some box stores have a tool that will work, not Home Depot. This tool will work:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-97258-Golden-Extractor-Drain/dp/B008A3UM7U/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1395033672&sr= 1-8&keywords=rectorseal[/ame]
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:33 AM   #4
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Tub drain removal


Just be aware that attempting to remove the chrome drain ring might (very likely) disturb the seals on the old brass drain set--if that happens you will need to replace the entire drain set----

That job could turn into an all day project-----
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:04 AM   #5
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Right now I have drum trap that frequently seems to cause water to drain only. Ideally I'd like to replace that as well with a p trap. I have access from the back of the tub but do people think I'd need access from the bottom? I was hoping to not cut open my ceiling.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:47 AM   #6
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Right now I have drum trap that frequently seems to cause water to drain only. Ideally I'd like to replace that as well with a p trap. I have access from the back of the tub but do people think I'd need access from the bottom? I was hoping to not cut open my ceiling. Below the tub I have kitchen cupboards that I'd have to remove as well to get access.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:12 AM   #7
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In most cases you would need access from below.
Only thing you can count on when working on old plumbing is if you touch one thing, another one will break.
Only thing that works in an old house is the owner.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:56 PM   #8
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Well I took my first close look at the drum trap from behind the access panel today and what I saw was not good. Originally I was just doing this so we could repaint the tub but what I found was a more immediate repair. I have attached a couple pictures. I have added arrow with roughly where the pipes were. What I saw was the lid to the drum trap had corroded and broken down so now the lid was just sitting on top the trap. I ran shower and the water and does always drain quick enough that it never comes up and over the sides of the trap and i don't see any evidence of water damage on the drywall. The only bad thing is if I do have to cut the ceiling open I may have to take down one kitchen cupboard as it's probably extends right out to where the pipes are located.

So for replacement I know I need to remove the drain from inside the tub, but then also I need to disconnect the drum trap from the drain pipe going back to the stack. The wood shown next to the arrow on the right is basically lose so I may try cutting that in half to see if it gives me enough access to access the pipe, but I just need to cut the pipe off at the drum trap correct? My only concern will be will I have enough room to maneuver to us a rubber coupling to connect a piece of PVC that has what I think is called the crown. In that case it may require opening the ceiling to cut the galvanized pipe back far enough to allow me to connect the PVC section with the crown. Then for the tub drain set currently you can see I have brass. Should I really stick with brass or is PVC recommended? I see I have lots of choices for the drain operation I probably will get my wife's input on that as I don't really have a preference. Anyone have any good reasons not to select a certain drain type?
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Tub drain removal-drum-trap-2.jpg   Tub drain removal-drum-trap.jpg  
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:50 AM   #9
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I think you have a plumbing day ahead of you---that loose cap will put that tub out of service---there is a drum trap thread from a couple of days ago---If I find it,I'll post a link----
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:22 PM   #10
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Any comments on proper way to join the p trap to the drain pipe? Is it okay to just cut the drum trap off and use a shielded coupling to connect the p trap? Also I've never glided PVC before should I just stick with the purple primer?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:29 PM   #11
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The drum trap need to be cut out--then a Fernco rubber fitting can be used to convert to PVC---

As to 'gluing'---it's not really glued--it's solvent welded---firat prime with the purple primer---then the solvent (glue) on both surfaces---twist as you push the parts together---the parts will be stuck forever---
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:43 PM   #12
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I really hope you don't find lead pipe leaving the trap......very tough to work with

As mentioned use a transition coupling, rebuild the trap with PVC solvent weld fittings.
You can buy the drain kit for about $25 at the box store. Much cheaper than brass and much stronger than tubular plastic kits
You'll need putty or silicon for the strainer assembly and the strainer tool to spin it into the shoe
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #13
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I picked up the drain kit and the drain key to remove the current drain out of the tub as my current drain won't work with the drain dumbbell. I know you can't tell from the picture but the pipe leaving drum trap is galvanized
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Old 03-29-2014, 12:48 PM   #14
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I got the tub drain out now trying to loosen the pipe from the 45 in the wall and I can't get it to budge. Attached is a picture. I thought I'd maybe be able to unscrew pipe but I cannot get it to budge. Guess I'll be cutting. Should I use grinder or reciprocating saw? If reciprocating how many teeth blade?
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanp22 View Post
I got the tub drain out now trying to loosen the pipe from the 45 in the wall and I can't get it to budge. Attached is a picture. I thought I'd maybe be able to unscrew pipe but I cannot get it to budge. Guess I'll be cutting. Should I use grinder or reciprocating saw? If reciprocating how many teeth blade?
The reason you can't budge it is; While you try to unscrew one end you're tightening the other. Impossible.

Are you sure you don't have a union or quick disconnect anywhere? If no union, you'll have to cut it with any of the above tools you mentioned. Stay tuned, others will be along shortly with more suggestions and advice for you. Before you cut it, wait for Eplumber to respond. Thanks.


Last edited by jmon; 03-29-2014 at 01:29 PM.
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