Trying to secure pedestal sink to wall

jkk

That's what I was thinking. I could also cut the risers short and add an elbow with a short capped piece. After all, it's the volume of air space that's important, right? The elbowed piece would drain sufficiently when the system was drained, i would think.

jagans

Not trying to be a Buzz-Kill here but is your water well water, and is it acidic? Im seeing a lot of small spots of copper oxide on those pipes which is usually an indication of soon to occur pin holing. Just asking.

As to your question, you can just use a piece of say 2o gage Galvanized sheet metal, say 8 inches by 17.5 inches. Screw to the studs with three plated MP screws per stud, and secure the sink with No. 14 self tapping HWH screws with fender washers. The OP is correct. You only need to handle any outward tensile force on the sink, not gravity.

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jkk

Not well water. Basic - pH is above 7. I know this because we used to have an aquarium.

jkk

MP? HWH?

Where can I get 2o gage galv?

jagans

Sorry, MP = Multi Purpose Bugle head screws, use these so they pull in flush with the sheet metal which will be hidden behind your drywall.

HWH= Hex Washer Head. I like these because you can drive then with a Magnetic nut driver. You may want to pilot drill for the self tapping screws. You could use self drilling but their holding power is not usually as good as self tapping in thin gage sheet metal. You may want to put a rubber tank washer under the fender washers to prevent cracking the sink.

If you make the metal say 19.5 you can break the metal back at 90 degrees on the outside of the studs for additional rigidity. Any roofing and sheet metal shop will make this up for you.

I guess you could use a metal stud or track also. They are pretty thin gage, but you could cut one in between the studs with fastening tabs to the studs, and stick a piece of plywood in the metal stud with construction adhesive for added pull out resistance. Wipe the metal with alcohol first to remove mill oil. Sealant will work too, but takes time to set up.

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Javiles

I would double check all you measurements on the rough especially that drain if it doesn't line up with the pedestal leg your gonna have trouble lining up the trap and it wont look very nice. try a dry fit.

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paintdrying

This post helped me to remember why I did not like pedestal sinks. I though his rough measurements looked odd. It is very difficult to install a pedestal sink perfectly.

jkk

Normally I would mostly agree ( I lifted some kitchen and bathroom tiles simply because there was the tiniest lip, only seen with a halogen in the floor), but in this case ...

The bathroom is only 30 sq ft, the sink is in the corner just inside the door (so no visibility in that side & which helps to hide the drain pipe), a vanity there makes the room look crowded and small(er), the only time I noticed the plumbing with the previous pedestal was when I had to change a washer, ....

Given all that AND not having to reroute the plumbing, I think it'll look perfect.

jkk

I've cut the arrestors down and installed a 2x6 backing plate.

The drain is 1 1/4" while the drain at the wall is 1 1/2" male threaded. Lowes only carried 1 adapter (1-1/2 threaded end to 1-1/4 pipe).

How do I transition to the 1-1/2"

TheEplumber

get a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" nylon, beveled washer/gasket for the trap adapter

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