Toilet Wax Ring Replcement
 

Tomorrow I'm going to replace the wax ring on my toilet. I have to go to HD to pick up a new ring. Any other supplies I'll need or should expect to find when I take apart the toilet?
Also there is currently grout around the base of the toilet. Can I just replace it with caulk?

i think its a personal preference for the grout or caulk you might need new bolts in case they are frozen and you have to cut them with a hack saw

I agree with PS..pick up some flange bolts. Measure the existing ones first though...nothing worse than flange bolts that are 3" higher than you need!

A set of brass flange bolts can easily be cut off with a hacksaw blade after initial installation above the nut.
If your floor isn't level around your toilet, you may need some beveled plastic shims made for the purpose to level the toilet before snugging down the bolts. Put a level across the bowl to find out.
Do NOT over-tighten toilet bolts as you may easily crack porcelain. Just snug them down so that the toilet cannot move at all.
Use an anti-mildew tub-and-tile caulk to seal around the front and sides only of the toilet base. Leave the back open for easier early leak detection.
Scrape all of the old wax ring off with a putty knife and wipe off any residue with paper towels. Set the ring on the flange.
Hold the new bolts in place and upright on the sides (at 3 and 9 o'clock) of the flange with bits of the old wax ring or with the old nuts run all the way down. Some people use straws stuck onto the bolts to help guide lowering the toilet. I've never used straws, but do whatever works for you.
Lower the toilet straight down onto the bolts and sit or stand on the toilet to wiggle it down firmly onto the new wax ring.
Good Luck!
Mike

One trick I have used to hold the bolts straight is to use an old coffee can lid, cut it washer size, then cut it in the middle, and slide the plastic "washer" you made all the way down to be base of the bolt. This should hold the bolt straight.

I recently bought replacement bolts that did have plastic washers to hold the bolts in place. I think they were the 3/8 thick hold-down bolts. I prefer these to the 1/4" bolts often packed in combination kits.:thumbsup:

Ok, I did the replacement yesterday. I haven't regrouted or caulked the bottom yet because I want to make sure there is no leakage. Knock on wood everything seems good.
The only problem I have is right at the shutoff valve. There is a tiny leak right at the nut.

Assuming that the shut-off valve is a compression fitting, the brass ring ferrule is what seals it, not the threads.
Turn the water off and either wrap a wrap of teflon tape or smear a little silicone or pipe compound on the ferrule itself and tighten it back up.
Good Luck!
Mike

don't caulk all the way around the toilet. leave a bit of a gap near the back so that if water does leak a few years later it will escape and you will notice it.

best instructions i have found for toilet install is found here

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/b..._1/install.htm

It is a brass compression fitting. I'll give that a try. Thanks Mike.

first you should install your bolts with a washer and nut onto the flange itself, that way they don't wiggle and turn ever again. after you place the toilet on top of the flange just snug it down. AND i never caulk or seal around the toilet because you'll never know it leaks until it's too late and your floor is ruined. even if you leave a little opening in the caulk seal, it might not show right away which is what you want in the first place.:thumbsup:

teflon tape or liquid teflon
 

1. Does liquid teflon dry? If so, how does it take?

2. Can one turn water on immediately after applying?

3. Can one applly liquid teflon to pvc to pvc, and will it hold high pressure?

4. Liquid seems easier than teflon tape--any disadvantges?

--Scott

liquid teflon stays wet, and yes you can turn the water on right after.