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Old 04-18-2013, 10:31 AM   #16
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


That's a good idea check gerber and morland as you suggested. If it's not the proper fitting gasket it probably will still leak no matter what you do. Water will always win eventually.

Just a suggestion, if you do happened to identify the toilet bowl maker and can't find anything local at your hardware/plumbing store, you can try ebay.com. They have a lot of old parts that are still available for toilets.

Sometimes the maker is no longer in business or goes out of business and there is no longer any support for your bowl. Before you go out and buy a new one, try ebay. I have found parts on ebay for items no longer supported. For example, just type gasket for gerber toilet tank in their search engine. Or Gasket for moreland toilet tank. See what pops up.

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Old 04-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #17
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


The problem is solved, and I wanted to thank everyone and post the solution here and some tips for any other first-time DIYers like me who have not tried this type of repair before.

It was, as Javiles alluded to, in need of the thicker gasket. I tried it one more time today, and discovered that my problem had been that I had not adequately tightened down the toilet bolts when installing it the first time. I saw the water tank sitting up very high, as the gasget was brand new and not yet squashed and deteriorated from years of use, so with the new gasget in place there was at least an inch to inch-and-a-half gap between the toilet water tank and body of the toilet. That was why I had thought it did not fit.

I carefully tightened down the toilet bolts, going from one side to the other. As long as the water tank is still moving, my understanding is that the tank bolts are not yet tight enough. I kept tightening until (a) the bolts felt tight and (b) there was no movement of the water tank. By this time, I could see a noticeable difference from yesterday's intstallation, as the tank looked like it was fitted secure on top of the body of the toilet and did not look like it was "riding high."

The toilet turned out to be a Briggs, not a Gerber, though the Gerber representative was helpful in assisting me in identifying my toilet. I had to look on the actual body of the toilet in a hard-to-see area: as I face the toilet body, I
looked underneath where the toilet bolts go, toward the right rear (facing the toilet), underneath the lip, for a number embedded in porcelain. On my toilet there was no number per se, but there was the following imprint: BRIGGS - S

I then called Briggs customer service for further assistance, and they were able to identify my toilet through the photos as Briggs toilet 4930. It needed the gasget B5143 if I were to order the Briggs part, but when I described the gasgets I had on hand and measured them for him, he felt as Javiles did that the thicker universal gasget should do the trick, even though measurements were not exact, but close enough. The other gasget was too thin.

Another tip in identifying this toilet: while working on it, after identifying it, in very faint letters inside the tank along the flat bottom of the tank, I could barely make out the word Briggs and part of the model number, 930 out of 4930.

As for the toilet bolts, listen to the professionals like Javiles and others! For all the DIYers that might find this thread after my problem has been solved, stores like your independent local hardware store or Home Depot will probably tell you to install the toilet bolts aa follows: bolt, with stainless steel washer next to it, and rubber washer next to the porcelain tank. This is incorrect and causes many problems (they will tell you it prevents them). The correct way to install toilet bolts as I have now learned is: inside the tank, bolt, with rubber washer only. Outside the tank you can use or not use the rubber washer next to the porcelain, followed by the stainless steel washer, and then the nut.

I also had some difficulty with the toilet flapper, which is now resolved. The Korky 2001 flapper from the old flush valve, which was only a couple of months old, did not appear to fit my new flush valve, as water was leaking out and running into the bowl. But it just needed a bit of time to seat properly. I took the chain off it, and let it rest against the flush valve. Then I let it create a seal and added a bit of water. When that looked good, I added more water. I have now reattached the chain and it is working fine. What initially threw me was that the shape of the "bulb" on the flapper that came with the new flush valve is different than the Korky flapper I have, but I learned from Korky the bulb is not what prevents the water from leaking; instead, it is the flat part that covers the hole.

My toilet is working fine now. No more leaks! I am letting it sit overnight, tank filled with water and water to the toilet turned off, as one final test, but am not anticipating any problems.

Thank you again for your help.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:12 PM   #18
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


This is the thicker gasget I ended up using. Tightening down the bolts properly until the tank no longer moved helped! I think I was afraid I was going to crack the porcelain, but I was careful and it went okay.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:24 PM   #19
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


Wheee, great job. Thanks for sharing your experience with the forum. That's how we all learn. Glad evrything worked out for you.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:26 PM   #20
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Wheee, great job. Thanks for sharing your experience with the forum. That's how we all learn. Glad evrything worked out for you.
Thanks, jmon! And thanks for the friendly welcome.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #21
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


In the tank does your toilet have a manufacture. Usually stamped on the porcelain.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:47 PM   #22
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In the tank does your toilet have a manufacture. Usually stamped on the porcelain.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:27 PM   #23
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


One thing I have learned is sometimes junk can get in those fluid master valves when the water is turned back on, It always helps to pop the top off and makes sure all is clear. I generally just replace toilets that are old. I get Gerber viper toilets for 100 dollars .
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:49 PM   #24
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Toilet Still Leaking After Replacing Gasket, Bolts, Fill Valve, Flush Valve


One mistake made a lot of times with replacing the seal between the water tank and the bowl is that some people tighten the bolts too tight which can actually distort the gasket. YEP ! The bolts between the tank and bowl should have the rubber washers under the bolt heads, the metal washer should go up under the bowl. The hole for the bolt should be a bit larger than the bolt and the washer will allow the nut to have more seating surface, I like to add a couple of extra metal washers so that they do not bend. Turn out the light in the bath/toilet area, use a flashlight to view between the tank and bowl while flushing the toilet. Look at both sides carefully. IF this is where the leak is (and I'm betting it is) you will see the water run out this locating the problem.

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