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-   -   Toilet and Shower Rough In Dimensions (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/toilet-shower-rough-dimensions-142929/)

VikingDinKC 05-06-2012 05:07 PM

Toilet and Shower Rough In Dimensions
 
Hello

I am in the process of refinishing my basement. My builder roughed in my toilet and shower drain. The toilet is 15-1/2 inches from the back wall to the closet side of the PVC pipe. The shower is 18-1/2 inches from the side wall to the closet side of the PVC pipe. On my basement walls, I have been first attaching 1 inch foam insulation. Without even thinking about the rough in dimensions, I have already installed to 1 inch foam on the walls in the bathroom. Now that I am thinking about the rough in dimensions, I think I may have made a mistake.

Doing research on for the toilet, it sounds like the rough in dimension for a toilet is 12 inches from the center line of the closet ring to rear finished wall. For me, I have 1 inch foam, ½ inch gap, 3-1/2 inch bottom pressure treated sill plate, and then I will add ¾ inch of sheet rock. So I have a total of 5-3/4 inches. So that means I am going to have 10-1/2 inches for my rough in toilet from finished wall. Based on this, should I remove the 1 inch foam? Doing that, I am only at 11-1/2 inches. Another option is to use 2x2 for the bottom sill plate instead of the 2x4 but this would make it difficult to then add the fiberglass insulation.

Since this is the first time I have done this, I would very much appreciate feedback on what approach I should use for the toilet.

I also have the same circumstances for my shower but at this point, I do not know the exact rough in dimensions. I saw at the store, the rough in for the shower base drain is 15.3 from side wall but I am not sure how many inches .3 is.

Thank you in advance for your feedback.

TarheelTerp 05-06-2012 06:46 PM

you can eliminate the foam insulation in the immediate area of the shower and toilet...
or you can break open the floor and redo the pipe to get the extra inches.

jaydevries 05-06-2012 06:56 PM

shower rough in very, toilet rough in is 12". drywall is 1/2" wall usually and 5/8" on ceiling in residential. so you have 1 inch foam tight to wall i would seal seams in foam and then fasten 2x4 's flat against foam that will give you 3 inches total. which will work if you want to you could always add another 1/2 of foam over lapping other foam seams.
here is a link of what a company sells for basement walls
http://www.ovrx.com/basement-wall-panels.html

jaydevries 05-06-2012 06:59 PM

i would leave the foam on that is one of the best way to finish a basement if heated due to heat transfer from concrete wall

a7ecorsair 05-06-2012 07:55 PM

You could buy a toilet with a 10" rough in:thumbsup:

Canucker 05-06-2012 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VikingDinKC (Post 915945)
Hello

For me, I have 1 inch foam,½ inch gap, 3-1/2 inch bottom pressure treated sill plate, and then I will add ¾ inch of sheet rock. So I have a total of 5-3/4 inches. So that means I am going to have 10-1/2 inches for my rough in toilet from finished wall. Based on this, should I remove the 1 inch foam? Doing that, I am only at 11-1/2 inches. Another option is to use 2x2 for the bottom sill plate instead of the 2x4 but this would make it difficult to then add the fiberglass insulation.

Do yourself a favour and eliminate that gap between the foam and stud wall. Especially if you're using fiberglass insulation.

VikingDinKC 05-06-2012 10:25 PM

Thank you for the feedback and for pointing out that a 10 inch rough in toilet was an option and sheet rock is only ½ inch thick. Is it a fair assumption that a 10 inch rough in toilet flushes as well as a 12 inch rough in? Also, I am kind of embarrassed but I had a math error in my first post. Based on all the feedback and correcting my error, here is what I got:

PVC pipe 15-1/2 inch from wall, then subtract 1 inch for foam insulation, 3-1/2 inches for bottom sill plate, 1/2 for drywall (total 5 inches). That leaves me 10-1/2 inches which will fit for a 10 inch rough. Please let me know if I made another error :)

As for my shower, my PVC pipe is 18-1/2 inches from the wall. I have looked online for a while now and cannot find the dimensions for a pre-purchased center draining shower pan (just a basic white one – my wife hates the thought of cleaning the tile floor). At Home Depot, the sign said 15.3 inches but the .3 worries me. Any feedback on the rough in dimensions? Here is what I am thinking I will have: 1 inch for foam insulation, 3-1/2 inches for bottom sill plate, 1/2 for drywall (total 5 inches). That leaves me 13-1/2. I am thinking it might be a good idea to go and purchase the shower pan just to make sure I am roughing it in correctly but I did not want to spend $160 yet :)

Any feedback is appreciated.

TarheelTerp 05-07-2012 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VikingDinKC (Post 916248)
PVC pipe 15-1/2 inch from wall...

less 12" for a STANDARD toilet leaves you 3 1/2" for wall structure and insulation.


Quote:

As for my shower, my PVC pipe is 18-1/2 inches from the wall.
..the dimensions for a pre-purchased center draining shower pan (just a basic white one... At Home Depot, the sign said 15.3 inches but the .3 worries me. Any feedback on the rough in dimensions?
1) Go to the pan makers website and get THEIR cutsheet...
2) don't build ANTHING until you have the pan at your house

Quote:

Any feedback is appreciated.
As stated above... regardless of how you build the other 200LF of wall in your basement... the 30" behind the toilet and the 36" at the end of the shower really and truly can be done differently.

f'rinstance: the 6 or t studs at issue can be made narrower or turned on their side to 1 1/2" or you can decide that the 3 1/2" of insulation in the stud cavity will be an adequate compromise.

Lot's of (zero cost) compromises to be had. Choose one.

hth

Alan 05-07-2012 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TarheelTerp (Post 916327)
less 12" for a STANDARD toilet leaves you 3 1/2" for wall structure and insulation.


hth

12" is to finished wall, so even with the 2x4 wall slammed to the concrete (probably not good) he's going to be shy 1/2"

Alan 05-07-2012 09:42 AM

Shower pans come in a multitude of sizes.


What size are you looking for? Most of them come with center drains, however they usually center the drain between the back wall and the inside of the dam, so they will have the drain around an inch or inch and a half off center of the entire unit, and usually a little closer to the backside.

Being that the floor is concrete, i'd recommend buying the pan that you want before you set the p-trap, that way you know for sure that it's going to be in the right place.

VikingDinKC 05-07-2012 12:33 PM

Thank you for all the feedback. For the toilet, sounds like the 10 inch rough in is the best bet. I would prefer to keep the walls framed at 3-1/2 inches since I will most likely be running drain pipe in the walls. On the other side of the bathroom, I am going to have a wet bar so I think the drain for the sink will drain into the bathroom.

For the shower, I am thinking 36 x 48 or maybe even 34 x 60. I have room for either and at this moment, I cannot think of a down side for going larger. It sounds like I need to make the shower pan purchase so I can make sure the rough in is correct. Any product brand better than another… looking at Lowes and Home Depot, American Standard and Kohler are brands I recognize.

Thank you again for all the feedback.

ben's plumbing 05-07-2012 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VikingDinKC (Post 916539)
Thank you for all the feedback. For the toilet, sounds like the 10 inch rough in is the best bet. I would prefer to keep the walls framed at 3-1/2 inches since I will most likely be running drain pipe in the walls. On the other side of the bathroom, I am going to have a wet bar so I think the drain for the sink will drain into the bathroom.

For the shower, I am thinking 36 x 48 or maybe even 34 x 60. I have room for either and at this moment, I cannot think of a down side for going larger. It sounds like I need to make the shower pan purchase so I can make sure the rough in is correct. Any product brand better than another… looking at Lowes and Home Depot, American Standard and Kohler are brands I recognize.

Thank you again for all the feedback.

yep do a 10" rough in closet...as far as shower look around for some different rough in ...it could be adjusted by breaking concrete.... not that big of a deal:yes:

Alan 05-07-2012 09:30 PM

If you can get your hands on an aquaglass, they make a pretty nice shower base with a fancy front edge and some real nice heavy legs and steel frame underneath it.


http://www.aquaglass.com/products.ph...id=1879&page=2

I can't tell by the picture if it's the same one, but if you click on the little hammer button up by the image, you can see the outline of the steel frame underneath.

I'm not sure how much they were, but I really liked these units.


I'm sure everyone else has favorites as well.

VikingDinKC 05-07-2012 10:38 PM

Thank you again for the responses. The bathroom I am working on is in the basement on a concrete floor. Is it a fair assumption that the P-Trap for the shower is in the concrete? If not, I am not sure there is enough space to put one in under the shower base.

Also, just as an FYI, this is a pretty helpful article.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Pr...-base/View-All

Alan 05-08-2012 08:55 AM

Yes, the p-trap will be under the concrete. If it isn't, you need to put one there.


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