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Old 02-17-2012, 08:34 PM   #1
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toilet install


I need to put a toilet in our new house but don't have the cash on hand for all the cement board and tile yet. Can I put the toilet down on a piece of cement board and tile around it or should I tile the corner the toilet is in now and finish the rest later. Thanks. My wife is sick of the out house and we are on a insulation electrical stage budget right now, so I want to get it done quick. If the tile around the toilet method is okay I will do that to get her done. The tile is natural slate. Thanks again.

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Old 02-17-2012, 08:41 PM   #2
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Not a great plan. Slate is one of then most stain prone floors you can install, it's also very fragile. Your going to end up with white water spot on the floor.
Before any tile goes down what do you have for a subfloor.
What's the width, distance between and span of the floor joist.
90% of any tile job is the prep, done wrong and it's all got to come out.

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Old 02-17-2012, 09:31 PM   #3
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Well my wife hasn't decided for sure on the tile yet, she wants either slate or travertine. The subfloor is 1x6 roughtsawn spruce full dim. The joists are 2x8 roughsawn spruce 16 inches o.c. 10' span. but the tile backer will be cement board screwed to the subfloor. Thanks. and thanks for the warning on the slate. Will it stain like that even if it is sealed well?
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:04 PM   #4
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You would be far better off with porcilin or ceramic tile.
Your going to have to cut out those old 1 X 6's
Tile can stand 0 movement and the floor have to be flat.
Use a Toe Kick saw to cut it out even with the wall, use an ossilating saw to cut out the corners.
Install Advantec sub flooring with constrution adhesive on the floor joist and screw the sub floor with ceramic coated decking screws.
Go over that with subfloor rated 3/8 plywood making sure not to have the seams line up with the seams below and do not nail or screw the underlayment to the floor joist. It gets attached every 4" on the edges and 6 to 8" in the field.
1/4" tile board goes down next with thin set under it.

Your thinking that's to much work I'm just going to do it my way.
That's fine but it cost far more to have to do a job twice.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:16 PM   #5
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Don't tile UP TO the toilet. You'll have a bear mother of a time trying to get it up later.


Here's a thought : Go down to a flooring outlet and buy a 4' square scrap of linoleum to lay under the toilet for temporary. Don't glue it.

Set the toilet, then when you're ready to tile, do the whole thing at once. Lift up your scrap of linoleum, throw it away, and GO.

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Old 02-17-2012, 10:19 PM   #6
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Good point, tile goes under the toilet up to the flange not up to the toilet.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:10 PM   #7
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first of all, nothing is too much work for me as I am 27 years old and have built this house from the ground up that includes logging the trees cutting them on a one man sawmill and nailing it all together. Second of all the wood is not old and Third of all there is no way that 3/8 plywood is stronger than 1 in norway spruce
nailed down with 10 ds. Wow. Please don't tell me what I am thinking. And last but not least try telling your wife what she thinks or wants. If she says travertine or slate thats what its got to be. No offense. And what does the tile type have to do with wether or not I can get away with tiling around the toilet? I'm here to tell you that an elephant could stomp on this floor and it wouldn't move. Add to that 1/2 in cement board glued and screwed and you could have that same elephant jump up and down. I am building this house to last. So I do want to do things right the first time that is why I asked. I think I will go with alan approach. That will get her done for time being.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:16 PM   #8
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Sorry if I upset you. I've been doing nothing but working on houses for over 30 years and have seen what works and what has failed more times then I can count. Just trying to save you the heart break of an expencive do over.
Your on you own good luck.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:28 PM   #9
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I'm just setting the record straight. But I have taken the point on the toilet. Don't tile around it. Got that. Not gonna do it. I'll tile under it. But as far as the floor goes, it is what is tried and true. I don't mean to dis your experience in any way. I just know that solid wood planking has been in use for a lot more than thirty years, more like hundreds. And alot of those old houses have faired far better than plywood boxes built within the last 50 years. Again, thanks for your time and info.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:40 PM   #10
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This is one of the best sites on the web for tiling questions.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=96727
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:16 AM   #11
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ruffsawn i agree about the lumber being test of time but tile was set different then from now joecaption is giving good advice for one way that is done to todays time done to even using good screws back in the day tiled bath floors were sunk down to accommodate for a floor that incorporates an uncoupling layer, which involved a wood floor then a sand bed then a concrete bed with metal wire mesh thin a morter bed to set tile in. of course you probally do not want to do that so i would sugest looking into a crack membrane like what is in this link
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
also take into factor was your lumber you cut kiln dried or air dried and are you sure it has fully acclamated to the right moisture content throught so it will not shrink any more

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