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-   -   Toilet Flange Disaster. Please Help (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/toilet-flange-disaster-please-help-169587/)

Mesaloco 01-20-2013 03:20 AM

Toilet Flange Disaster. Please Help
 
I recently bought a house and have been slowly trying to figure how to fix things on my own. I may be in over my head now. We are trying to replace the toilet in our bathroom and the old toilet flange was completely broken. I tried removing it but that may have been a horrible idea. Now I am stuck with part of the old flange around my 3" waste pipe. With the way it is I don't see how a new flange could possibly fit. There is about 5 inches before the pipe hits the top of an elbow. The concrete has deteriorated around it because of water damage. I currently would not be able to bolt a flange to the floor even if I were to somehow attach it to the waste pipe. I have attached a picture to give you a look at my disaster. Please don't laugh. Okay you can laugh. I deserve it. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Mike

https://www.pushpintravelmaps.com/pr...iletflange.jpg

oh'mike 01-20-2013 04:39 AM

What is the pipe made of?

Mesaloco 01-20-2013 04:51 AM

It's just a black abs pipe.

oh'mike 01-20-2013 05:01 AM

You need to remove the old flange----or most of it----cut the pipe at floor height---glue a new inside flange--this kind slides inside of the pipe-----

then you will need to chip away enough of the bad concrete to reach a solid ,clean part of the concrete.

Use vinyl concrete patch---screw the flange into the soft patch.

3" inside flanges can be trouble----often the toilet drain horn will hit the flange,ccausing a rocking toilet or failure to seal,

To avoid that possibility---make sure the flange top is flush to the floor surface---if it's above the finished floor you may have trouble.

Mesaloco 01-20-2013 10:39 AM

Thank you for your help. I have read that an inside flange on a 3 inch pipe is a bad idea. Will that be okay? If its the only way then it will work for me. Thanks again.

BC Plumber 01-20-2013 11:43 AM

Heres what I would do:

Jack hammer out the concrete all the way until you expose the 90. Cut the elbow off, get yourself a 3x4" ABS 90. Cut a piece of 4" pipe so its a few inches above the floor. Pour concrete so its flush with the existing concrete, making sure its levelled out. When its dry, cut the 4" pipe flush with the concrete floor. Glue your flange inside the pipe. Place something heavy ontop of the flange (like 50lb+) for a couple hours. Place your toilet on the flange (dont forget your wax ring), tighten bolts but do not over tighten as you can crack the toilet. Make sure the toilet sits securely without rocking. If it does rock, there are rubber wedges you can buy to place under the base of the toilet where it needs to be levelled out. Cut them flush with the edge of the base. Hook up the water and test the toilet a few times. Leave it for a day to make sure no water is leaking. When you can confirm that, silicone the front and sides of the toilet, not the back. This will help to additionally stabilize the toilet, yet not prevent you from finding a leak if one occurs as water will make its way out the back, non-siliconed area.
Tips:
Jack hammer more area than you think you need. An extra couple inches can help speed up the process while jack hammering than fighting a small space half way through your project.
Glue is cheap, leaks are expensive. Use ABS glue on the fitting/pipe excessively when they are underground.

funfool 01-20-2013 12:04 PM

That was a good post and proper fix.
And do not need a huge jack hammer that you roll around on a hand truck.
You can rent a chipping hammer from home depot for 4 hours, will come in a case you can carry, they will ask you what attachments you need / what you are doing. They will set you up.

As scary as a jack hammer sounds, you will have it broke out in about 30 min or less.
You may not need or want to replace the elbow.
You want your flange 12" from finished wall. Depending which direction the pipe is coming from, You will shorten the length from cutting the elbow, that may be fine or may cause a problem.
You may need to cut more and use a coupling to get it back in correct location.
So if you have room, depending how far down the elbow is buried, just put the coupling in after existing elbow, and leave it alone.

oh'mike 01-20-2013 12:08 PM

What these members are suggesting is the best way for a professional fix----

My method will work---

Mesaloco 01-21-2013 01:48 AM

Thanks guys for your help. I am going to try the first method first. If that doesnt work out so well, I think I will just hire a professional. If I get behind a jack hammer I may end up being forced to move. I appreciate the suggestions.

jagans 01-21-2013 12:32 PM

What you are showing in that picture is a lead extension that was on your toilet that supposedly eliminates the need for a wax seal. (It looks like it is stuck into clear silicone into the EL below??) Why don't you take that out, clean up the EL and show us whats left? assuming the extension is lead, you should be able to roll it in on itself with a pair of long nosed vice grips.


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