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Old 02-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #16
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toilet flange


A hole saws not going to work, the holes already made so there's no way for the saw to center it's self.
If it's tight quarters and it's cast then rent a chain cutter. A few twist and it pops right off and it's cut straight.
Yes a fernco is what you use.
It would be far better if you can to just remove all that old junk so if it's easyer to cut someplace else do it and just replace with 4" PVC.

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Old 02-12-2012, 07:46 PM   #17
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To cut it- use a grinder with a concrete/tile wheel or regular soil pipe/chain snaps(rental yard) But don't use the snaps too close to the end of the pipe- it will crumble or crack
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:46 PM   #18
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Here is a look from underneath. There is some type of hub at the stack and the toilet drain comes out horizontally and then a 90 degree angle up through the floor.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:08 AM   #19
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OK, now I'm really confused. Your last post shows a typical cast iron toilet set up. You first post shows what appears to be clay pipe stubbed to the floor. The color, pipe wall thickness and the 5" OD screams clay. How can it be both?
I'm off to bed.....
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:14 AM   #20
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Now you are just as confused as i am.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:26 AM   #21
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Just snap it off at least 6" above the hub with a chain cutter, It's cast not clay which in your case is a good thing.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:49 AM   #22
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Swoop- That must be a spigot end of cast iron, maybe that accounts for it being so thick.
If I was repairing this, I"d cut the horizontal pipe a few inches from the hub of the san. tee located in the stack. Then use a shielded CIxPLAS "fernco" or "mission" coupling to connect new PVC pipe and 90 for the toilet. It doesn't look like you have room to cut on the vertical stub because of the joist.
While your down there working, replace the wire supports on the water line with plastic supports. the wire shouldn't touch copper
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #23
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Can I find that type of fernco at HD or Lowes? How about the tool to cut the CI? Or is this something that can be done with a sawzall?
Does the fernco just get tightened down or is there some kind of sealant as well?
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:18 PM   #24
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Lowes and HD have the Furncos. There is no sealant used just tighten up the hose clamps.
You will need a short piece of 4" PVC, a new flange, primer and Cement, some flat head tap cons to attach the flange to the floor.
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:09 PM   #25
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I bought a diamond blade for my sawzall, so I am going to try and cut the CI with that tonight. I'll let you guys know how it went.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:55 PM   #26
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I tend to have pretty good luck with the 14 tpi saw blades in the 8" range,buy a package of them youll be cutting a while no matter what you use
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:26 AM   #27
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For $20 bucks or so you can rent a chain breaker and have that snapped out in 5 minutes--

An angle grinder does a quick job,too---but clearance to cut can be a problem.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:34 AM   #28
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Yeah but it can also turn into a huge job in about 30 seconds or less if you screw up with that snapper
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:02 AM   #29
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True---but rare---if the old iron is rotten enough to crush then it needs replacing any way--

But then again I like repiping jobs--
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:04 AM   #30
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Im thinking more ong the lines of an inexperianced operator doing damage

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