||12-08-2009 09:56 AM
Originally Posted by Kirock17
I'll admit, I find cutting the floor a bit daunting, which is why I was considering raising the floor. However, based on what I've read here, I am much more seriously considering cutting the floor. I do have a few questions though...The pipe coming out is pvc, how do I cut up the floor without cutting through the pipe? Also, in a poured cement basement, are the pipes actually in the poured cement or do they run in a space or in the dirt underneath the cement? finally, I'm wondering how far from the wall a drain for a bath tub is supposed to be. I haven't measured that one off recently so I can't remember what it is. But I figure if I'm going to cut the floor, I may as well move that one too, if it is wrong. Thanks for all the input!
You won't regret cutting the floor - it's really the right way to fix it. the slab is typically about 4" thick. If you look down the existing drain, you should be able to get an idea of how far beneath the slab the horizontal run of pipe is. The pipe is usually laid in a trench in the dirt, buried, and then the slab is poured. Sometimes the pipe can be up closer to the surface, but not usually. If you damage the pipe, you'll just have to cut up that much more floor to take your repair a little further, that's all. I like to use a concrete cutting wet saw. It's more of a hassel to set up (and clean up) than a hammer drill, but the actual "work" is much quicker. It helps if someone is following right along your cut with a wet vac. Whatever method you use, just make sure no big fragments fall down the pipe. Finally, after you've extended (or shortened) the pipe to the desired location, put a spacer around the stub that'll maintain a little space between the new concrete patch and the pipe. They sell spacers (usually styrofoam, or plastic and
styrofoam) specifically for this purpose. This allows you to glue the closet flange onto the pipe after the concrete has cured and your finished flooring has been laid.
All tubs are different. Find the make and model # of your tub and go to the manufacturers web site to get a copy of the rough-in specs for exact measurements. You've also got a lot more flexibility with tub drains in that you can buy a waste and overflow that drains "above the floor" and run the waste pipe horizontally to reach the stub. They also make "shoe outlet" and "side outlet" waste and overflows. When I rough in for a tub in a basement, though, I usually leave the horizontal waste arm for the tub capped in a pit below grade, then I build a box about 12" square to go around it to keep the concrete out when it's poured. When it comes time to finish the installation, that's
when I fit the trap. But if your trap is already installed below grade, you can probably make it work without busting up the slab.