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Old 09-25-2011, 10:41 PM   #1
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


Here's what I found yesterday:


It pulled right off with a little wiggling. This is what I'm left with:



Is the cast iron threaded? How can I get this out? It looks soldered. Do I just need to bite-the-bullet and call a pro?

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Old 09-26-2011, 06:43 AM   #2
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


You can get that out yourself.

The pipe is simply slipped into the hub---then packed with oakum (looks like rope)--then lead is poured into the gap to form a seal.

You need a drill--and an old screwdriver and a hammer.

Drill out as much of the lead as you can--use the screwdriver to pry out more lead---wiggle and rock the bad pipe---this will compress the remaining lead enough that you can wiggle the old pipe out of the hub.

Cast iron pipe will crack like an old flower pot---If you can't get it loose like I described--crack the old pipe with the hammer----repeated light blows will start a crack --don't get brutal--many sharp smacks in the same place is the way----Good luck---Mike---

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Old 09-26-2011, 05:59 PM   #3
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Awesome. I'll let you know how it turns out. Home Depot guy sold me a screw-in adapter, but I'm guessing I won't be able to use it once the piece is out. What will adapt the 4" PVC to the cast-iron?
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:17 PM   #4
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


A rubber doughnut---3" PVC to 4" iron---

Clean the hub well---add the 3 inch PVC to the doughnut --then beat the doughnut into the hub.

I like to rub a thin film of silicone caulk inside the hub for insurance---I don't think it's really needed --but I always do it anyway.----Mike---
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:23 PM   #5
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


So I'll probably need a 4x3 street elbow?
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:35 PM   #6
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


Looks like the toilet flange is far enough out to use a short length of pipe and a regular 90*

Buy both and take back the extra---
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:39 PM   #7
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Oh, the PVC wants to work its way out of the rubber doughnut as you beat the rubber into the hub---so mark the location and tap on the PVC once or twice to keep it on your mark.

A chunk of scrap wood long enough to clear the end of you stub out will make the job easier--(beater block)
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:58 AM   #8
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


Here's where I'm at. I couldn't find a 4x3 donut, but I used a chain cutter to get the old stuff out-of-the-way. See here:



I was able to get a fernco 4 in. clay to 4 in. pvc coupling around the left-over hub (chain cutter couldn't get any closer to vertical pipe):



Here's how I'm looking to finish it. Nothing's glued yet, and I have to shorten the straight-pipe to get the flange level, as there's a kitchen-fan housing that the elbow sits against (ask me about the bathroom floor, and you'll hear worse) that I have to account for:



Then:



How far in, or how far past the rubber coupling should the pipe go? Right now it's flush with the 4-inch part of the iron pipe, just past the left-over hub. I could bring the pvc pipe back so its edge will be flush with the smaller-diameter part of the rubber coupling. Also, the pipe-clamp is solid on the hub. I could crank it more with a ratchet, but I'm afraid of over-kill.

Thanks for encouraging me to get this done on my own. You've saved me a lot of money and worry over this.
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:01 AM   #9
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For a standard toilet--Center of flange should be 12 1/2" from the studs---(12" from face of new drywall)


One other small thing--Is that flange inside of the street 90* ? Should be on the outside--Mike---
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #10
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Mike, it will be almost exactly that distance from the studs.

I will change the flange. Thanks for the heads-up.

What do you think about the placement of the straight pipe? Does it matter if it's flush with the cast iron as it reduces, or should it be flush with the rubber of the smaller end of the coupler?

Can I put the silicone caulk you recommended between the coupler and each attachment point, as you had advised earlier?
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:52 PM   #11
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If the iron was rough a little silicone their is good--no need with rubber to plastic---

Looks good---you have nerve cutting the hub--and you succeeded !!

Looking good.
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Looks good---you have nerve cutting the hub--and you succeeded !!

Looking good.
I was thinking the same thing. If that hub cracked he would have a BUNCH more work to do.
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by AlbacoreShuffle View Post
I was thinking the same thing. If that hub cracked he would have a BUNCH more work to do.
Sometimes the new guy gets lucky!
I wouldn't have tried that---yet he did and it worked!
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbacoreShuffle View Post
I was thinking the same thing. If that hub cracked he would have a BUNCH more work to do.
All I have to say about that is You got horse shoes my friend.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:30 PM   #15
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Toilet Drain Pipe Help


Oh my. I hadn't realized that was such a risky idea. So what I'm hearing is that chain-cutting the hub could have resulted in cracking it? Yeah, I guess that would have been much more work.

The guy at Home Depot suggested cutting the pipe, but we didn't know that it would be the hub itself. I got home, saw that I had to cut the hub, and just decided to go for it. It wasn't balls, it was ignorance. Just got lucky.

I wondering if scoring it as much as I could helped.

And now I want to check it for cracks. Hadn't even conceived...

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