Tile Will Make Toilet Flange Lower
Anyone know if I could just use a flange extension or would I need to replace the whole Toilet Flange?
Right now the Flange is above the concrete floor by about 1/3 of an inch. When I tile it will make the Flange slightly below the new Tile floor level.
Could I just use a couple wax rings or an extension kit or should I replace the whole thing?
A little below the tile is fine.
You can use an extension or a jumbo wax ring.
Well I'm not exactly sure how much lower below tile level it will be. Right now I just have a concrete floor which I'm about to tile. I wanted to know if I should just remove the rusted toilet Flange first.
Update. I just tried to unscrew all the screws that fits the flange to the concrete, and they just kept going like they were loose. I'm not sure if the current flange is secured properly to the concrete.
Based on your first picture, it almost looks like somebody used mortar of some sort around the ring (it is white vs the concrete surface)?
Can you remove the screws by pulling on them? If you can, perhaps tapping in a larger diameter + longer screws?
The ring itself does not look too bad. Does it have cracks or rusted through in spots? I wonder if you can just use a toilet flange repair ring on top?
I am not sure but to replace that toilet flange completely, you will probably have to remove some concrete around it.
As far as the height, from my personal experience, I would avoid using the double wax ring setup. Instead, go with ePlumber's suggestion. If your flange is more than 1/4" below the finished floor, I would use one PVC spacer ring with a gasket (or wax ring between flange and spacer ring).
Id try a #3 no seep wax ring once the tile is on ,you should be fine :)
The flange is flaking all the paint from it and it is some what rusty. It still feels intact, but it doesn't feel like it's bolted to cement (mortar) very well.
The flange is a metal ring w/ ABS going into an ABS pipe. The metal ring is also a little lop sided. The bolts to the cement just spin but aren't really tight. Is that OK?
There must have been light water seeping under toilet for a long time, because the mortar around the ring is kinda loose/brittle and the metal is rusty and a little lopsided.
Does this water seep under toilet because the wax ring was set wrong?
I'm just not sure if this thing is stable enough.
So I've decided to just replace the Flange. This is mainly because there is thinset mortar that is chalky around the subfloor where the current flange is
I think I don't think it will be that hard to do since the flange is an outside flange and the one I will put in will be an inside.
1. One issue is that there is that white mortar which is a bit flakey. Should I chisel it out until it seems hard, then just replace it with more thinset mortar? Or should I replace it with quickcrete or some sort of bondo cement? This is the main thing I'm concerned about.
Also if I use bondo cement repair would this be sufficient for a base for the new flange to be installed
2. Second issue is should I use a plastic ABS flange or an ABS flange with a metal ring? I hear that benefits of metal is its stronger at first, but with water it can corrode very quickly where the plastic doesn't corrode? i was thinking this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UFrC8Y1lTDE
3. Third, should I put the flange on top of the finished floor or flush with the finished floor. I suppose I'll be using that mortar/cement so I could fill the level to the level of my mortar and then fill it up to the finished floor line like in this pic:
THANKS SO MUCH GUYS!
Sounds Like Alot of Work To Me
I get these Google Alerts whenever somebody posts something about 'toilet flange repair'
My advice to you is to take a look at this product ' Set-Rite Toilet Flange Extender Kit and watch the video they have on their website http://set-rite.com
I have used their product many times since finding it about 5 years ago and it works like a champ. You can use the gasket that comes with their kits or use a standard wax ring.
You will save yourself a lot of work and this is Code Approved by I think it's IAPMO and UPC (Universal Plumbing Code)
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