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GerardW 03-18-2013 09:58 AM

Threaded or soldered nipple
I'm on the cusp of replacing several of my supply valves for sinks/toilets, and note that the pipes are pretty corroded, and in one case, even bent at a bit of an angle.

My question is thus- is there any way to tell if the nipples are threaded onto the supply pipe or soldered? Could I just try giving a tug with my pipe wrench to see if they come unscrewed?

I know that my bathtub had a threaded nipple that I was able to replace easily. Would that be an indication that the same may be true of my supply lines?

djlandkpl 03-18-2013 10:01 AM

What material are your pipes? Some photos would help.

joecaption 03-18-2013 10:01 AM

Should be able to just look at them and tell.
If it''s threaded there's still going to be a few threads showing.

GerardW 03-18-2013 10:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 67537

Here is a pic of the toilet supply line. I posted this in another thread asking about replacing the valve, but replacing the whole pipe would be preferable. The cover prevents my seeing much behind it....

joecaption 03-18-2013 10:08 AM

There soldered.
I'd replace them with compression.
Also replace those old escuntions while the valves off.
No reason you could not just cut the pipe, and clean it up instead of having to unsolder them.

GerardW 03-18-2013 10:09 AM


Thanks for the reply! I agree about cutting off the valve and replacing the escutcheon as well as the valve. I guess my question is about the pipe itself- is it threaded onto the main pipe in the wall, so could I replace that entire piece of pipe? This particular pic isn't that bad, but the sink supply pipe is bent pretty badly and looks pretty grody.

joecaption 03-18-2013 10:11 AM

Most likly it's soldered on both ends. You have to open up the wall to get to it.

GerardW 03-18-2013 10:15 AM

Boo! Then I'll probably just try to clean it up with a little sandpaper and some elbow grease.

Should I even risk trying to straighten out the bent supply pipe? I can post a pic of that later today.

joecaption 03-18-2013 11:48 AM

Post the picture first.
I'd replace it before I'd take a chance on bending it.
If it under a sink why mess with it?

GerardW 03-18-2013 11:58 AM

Joe- my point exactly. But my supervisor (wife) may give me other orders. Pic coming tonight.

jagans 03-18-2013 12:09 PM

We already replied to this. Didn't it take?

1. They are soldered.
2. Shut off water main, flush toilet, sop up water with sponge in tank.
3. Cut off just behind existing valve with close quarters hack saw, and dispose of valve.
4. remove deep well escutcheon and dispose of same.
5. Shine up pipe with plumbers Emory, shoe shine method.
6. Spackle and paint wall.
7. Install new low profile escutcheon.
8. Applly tinning flux on pipe all over.
9. Wire brush inside of sweat 1/4 turn supply valve, open valve, apply tinning flux. Apply heat with propane torch to female end of chrome valve. Feed wire solder all around, when you see capillary action pull solder, remove heat, and let cool naturally.
10. Attach supply snug up 5/8" OE wrench. Close valve.
11. Turn on water.
12. Slowly open valve.


GerardW 03-18-2013 09:57 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 67587

Sink supply lines. Couldn't find a good frame to show the bend however...

jmon 03-18-2013 10:02 PM

Bend doesn't look to bad, I'd leave it alone. Won't the base cover up most of it?

joecaption 03-18-2013 10:14 PM

I'd be far more concered with that old rusted out steel drain line.
At some point that sure to leak if it's not all ready.

gregzoll 03-18-2013 10:51 PM

Only way you are going to be able to fix those valves, is to open the walls where they are, then patch after replacing with new stub outs and valves. When you go to replace the valves, use 1/4 turn Ball valves. If the stubs were long enough, I would just tell you to just cut off the old valves and put in some Shark Bites and be done with the job in less time than it takes to do the cutting of the gypsum, cut old piping, sweat in place new piping and valves, fix the patch, prime, paint.

Now if you are smart, you show the wife how to cut out the patch for one set of pipes, then have her go and do the same for the others. Then as she goes around, lay the parts for the piping at each location, along with the cut out section of drywall, if done carefully, so that it can be put back in place. Otherwise, suggest getting a 4x4 section or some scrap if you can from a local job site if they will let you grab it, of 1/2" drywall.

I got lucky and grabbed about three sheets total of 1/2" Gypsum that the contractor doing my neighbor's bath next door, that were from sections that were left over, when she had it done this past Summer.

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