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Old 11-21-2012, 07:03 PM   #1
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


Put in a new hot water tank a couple years ago after the original one gave out. I've been told that testing the pressure valve on a old water heater might damage it. With that said, can I test the pressure valve on my newer tank?? Thank-you all in advance!

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Old 11-21-2012, 07:09 PM   #2
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


It is recommended that you test the T&P valve- but I personally don't touch one without telling the owner that it may clog with WH sediment while testing and therefore fail to seat 100%.

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Old 11-21-2012, 08:18 PM   #3
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


Far more important to drain out some of the sediment in the bottom of the tank every year.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:22 PM   #4
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


If your gonna pop open your T&P, have a spare on hand, so you can install it if the old one doesn't close. They really aren't that expensive, and can come in handy in the middle of the night, or a Sunday.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:06 AM   #5
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


Ayuh,... Or just leave it Alone,....

Testin' it has No real value,... at All....
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:09 AM   #6
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondo View Post
Ayuh,... Or just leave it Alone,....

Testin' it has No real value,... at All....
Sure it does. If I test one and it doesn't reseat. I get to sell a new one.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:39 AM   #7
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


Attempted to flush a few gallons of water from tank but nothing came out! Had a hot water faucet open and still nothing came out. Any suggestions? Installed tank only a couple years ago?
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:36 PM   #8
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testing hot water tank pressure valve?


The T&P valve can be removed safely for inspection. BUT--First turn off the power to the WH if electric, or turn off the gas if gas fired. Attach a garden hose to the "faucet/valve" on the bottom/side of the tank, run this out a window/door or some area to drain some water. Open the valve and look to see if any water is draining. IF NOT--there is enough sediment in the bottom of the tank to block the manual drain valve. There are numerous tricks on getting this sediment to move. One I like is to use the "blowing" end of a shop vac to blow through the opened drain valve. At this time you only want to remove enough sediment to drain water from the tank just below the level of the T&P valve. Once this is done remove the valve, and it probably won't be easy as they really put them in tight. Most of the T&P valves I have seen have the valve seat on the back of the valve. This will be a brass seat which moves by moving the handle on the T&P valve and seats against a brass seat. This can be cleaned of sediment by holding the valve open and using running water and a cloth or brush. IF you have enough sediment to prevent water from running out the drain valve it would be advatageous to completely drain the heater and clean the sediment out. I use a shop vac with a piec of 3/4" semi-flexible hose duct taped to the shop vac hose. This allows me to move the semi-flex hose around in the tank to remove as much sediment as possible.

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