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Old 05-05-2008, 10:22 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by tsansone View Post
HELP !! I made a clasic weekend warior mistake. While installing a gas grill over the weekend I used a dope product on a brass to brass connection which (now that I read the instructions) is really meant for CPVC piping. The product is called real-tuff. Will this connection be ok as is or must I redo with a differnt dope?
Interesting... I see on the can it lists CPVC pipe and fittings on the front.... is that the only material it lists? Perhaps this is one of the few 'dopes' that is safe to use on CPVC ?

Anyway, here is a list I found of some tape and dope products (including real tuff) and their uses listed...


real tuff™

A multi-purpose thread sealant formulated with the highest percentage PTFE content on the market. PTFE particles fill cracks and tiny thread imperfections - providing superior lubricating and sealing properties. Leak-free joints can be tested and put into service immediately. Holds tight against vibration, expansion, and contraction. Brushable; non-separating; will not run or drip from joints. Soft set; no cure time required. Withstands temperatures from -50F to 500F (on steel pipe), and pressures of 12,000 psi (hydraulic), 2600 psi (gas). For use with liquids, including acids and alkalis and gases (except oxygen). For use on metals, including galvanized steel, black iron, aluminum, copper, brass, stainless steel and on PVC, ABS, and CPVC plastics (for use on specific brands of CPVC pipe, verify suitability with pipe manufacturer). Superior anti-galling properties with stainless steel. Excellent resistance to strong acids, alkalis and ketones. Non-flammable and contains no heavy metals or volatile solvents. Certified to ANSI/NSF Standard 61, safe for drinking water lines. Meets Fed. Spec. TT-S-1732. White.


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Old 05-09-2009, 03:02 AM   #47
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pipe dopes in spain

we installed 70 meters of 2 inch galvanized pipe to connecct with a community irrigation system in spain. when i returned from buying the pipe and supplies, i saw they had sold me black polyurethane paint instead of pipe dope. the neighbor told me "sure, thats how we do it here. wrap the threads with fine hemp material and paint it". i'm from usa and it seemed wrong to me, but then i thought maybe its the local way and i'm learning a new way to do things. the next day i asked at a diiferent hardware store and they also were going to sell me polyrurethane paint. a few days later, the coop's plumber came to install the meter, used automobile grease as pipe dope, and told me if we ever had a problem with the painted threads, they'd break since the paint had hardened over the hemp. another example of how "spain in different". what do plumbers think of this?
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:37 PM   #48
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Pipe tape thickness

Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber View Post
I see what your saying, it does not matter which way you apply it, they both serve the same purpose. I find it easier to apply the pipe dope after the tape, keeps my fingers clean.

But do as your told.

I definately agree with your process. I have been using it for a while myself with great success. Tape by itself, or dope by itself, never seems to work. The question I have for you is what tape to use? Up till now I have been buying the cheap bags of tape rolls at the depot. They seem very thin. But I understand that there are varying thicknesses that you can buy, that are all color coded based on thickness. But isn't a few more raps of the thin stuff identical to a few wraps of the thick stuff? Cost isn't an issue, and I prefer to buy the right stuff. It just seemed like all the tape I saw out there was pretty much the same.
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:00 PM   #49
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nylon to brass and pvc

I'm connecting a pressurizing pump (brass, female, 1/2") to a filter (Culligan, pvc, 3/4") using nylon malel-to-barbed fittings on either end of a 16" piece of reinforced pvc tubing. The setup is provided by the pump's mfg. After considerable experimentation, what seems to work best is to start wrapping teflon tape on the first threads and to move in a spiral towards the other end, finishing with about three turns there, actually overlapping the hex end. Installation is completed with a stainless band clamp on the barbed section.

Problem is that there remains a small drip at the pump end.

In all of the experiments, the condition of the threads on the nylon fittings appears to be good. There has been no cross-threading (as yet).

FWIW, when I have removed the fitting, on previous attempts with less tape, pretty much all of the tape has vanished.

So, this seems to contradict the relevant postings here. I'd appreciate comments or suggestions.
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:17 PM   #50
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I know how to change a shower head but am having real trouble getting the old head off. It was originally put on by a plumber and he used some sort of liquid teflon I think. It looks brownish/yellow. The head seems to be really stuck on and won't even budge. I'm afraid that if I put any more pressure on it I could break the pipe. Whatever he used - is it like glue or do I just really have to put more pressure on my wrench?
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:16 AM   #51
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been lurking here for a while, thanks for all of the advice / opinions everyone. I thought Id throw in my 2 cents on this issue... just finished a plumbing project on my house.

The water main from the street is 1", goes through a 1" gate valve then through the 5/8" water meter. After the meter there is a pressure regulator, then a 1/2" ball valve, then 1/2" copper leading through the house.

I replaced everything after the pressure regulator with 3/4"... 3/4" threaded brass ball valve, then a 3/4" brass fitting to connect with the 3/4" threaded copper to copper pipe fitting. Needless to say there were a lot of threaded fittings I had to deal with.

I left all of the threaded fittings downstream of the pressure regulator intact, they were not leaking or causing me any problems. On all of the new fittings, I first put 3 tight wraps of teflon tape around the whole joint, then used pipe dope on top of the tape. Tightened down the fittings...no leaks! It seems like the assembly of the fittings squeezed out a lot of the pipe dope, but I dont have a problem with that...it wipes up easily.


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