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Old 06-10-2007, 04:50 PM   #16
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In Syracuse NY our water comes from Skaneatelas Lake with a hardness of 120mg/l - which is moderately hard....is this a factor as well......?
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Here's what I tell my customers"

Part of maintaining the warranty is being PRO ACTIVE in the maintance of the tankless. Understand this, tankless units actually have a bladder of about 7/10's ofa gallon. This baldder is what you want to protect. Homes that have a soft water system in place, I recommend that once a year they do a flush service. If they do not have a softener, I tell them every 6 months. Now, I charge a lot and if the client seems capable I will show them how to do it on the first scheduled service. Mostly I just do it though.

We do this flush to preserve the life of the bladder. If that gets all mucked up with deposts and scale, kiss that tankless good buy, and warranty will not cover it as the manual clearly tells the owner to service the unit.

Please note the same thing is going on inside your tanked heater. This is not specific to tankless units, there is just a pro active to counter this.

As for your homes setup........I dunno, sounds like the plumber who repiped just used the less expensive 1/2" verses 3/4". I have seen hacks do that before. (How bout you Ron, seen that one yet/?)

Point is, if there are more than 3 fixtures getting hater from a 1/2" supply, it is in correct. Doesn't mean it won't work (obviously) just not to code.

A tankless would work just fine in this application. Saying it wouldn't is like saying you have a regular 3/4" plumbing system and you turn on one fixture (1/2") and the unit not working....Like what that other buffon was talking about in that other thread.

THe one thing you might want to inquire about is your warranty with the manufactures. See if they will void it. But I think you would be better served replacing your main trunks to 3/4" and re connect your 1/2" branches. If you did it in pex, that is a day job....most likely!!

Good Luck!

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Old 06-10-2007, 05:03 PM   #17
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Rick Bruner, I will wait for Tankless mans comments on your last post. I have heard more problems with hard water on tankless units than full sized. I would guess that it is the coils in them. Going back to your original post and the comments so far, if you have 1/2" lines and this violates "code" due to manufacturers specs, I would say it is a dead issue unless you change the size of the piping. Good luck.
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Old 06-10-2007, 05:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Tankless Man View Post
As for your homes setup........I dunno, sounds like the plumber who repiped just used the less expensive 1/2" verses 3/4". I have seen hacks do that before. (How bout you Ron, seen that one yet/?)
Not here, every tankless heater we come across or install has the min 3/4 in and 3/4 out, 1/2 on the branches.

Rinnai gas fired are popular here.

I do get a kick out of the ones who purchase tankless over the net that suppose to run on electric only, not sure there worth diddly.

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Old 08-27-2009, 11:03 PM   #19
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I purchased a Titan Tankless water heater and would love to chat with you about installation and use.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:04 PM   #20
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here's the one I installed.
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:43 PM   #21
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I dont know I bought a few titan tanklees off the net,hooked them up myself and they have been doing great for over three years now.Had it hooked to the well and worked ok but we have alot of iron so I had to flush them about every three month,then the well went so I hooked to city water.It has more presure so now they work even better,and I dont have to flush them.I bought several smaller ones to use as heat at point or one for each bath one for the kitchen,the wash room,so on but since things kept getting reconfigured I just ran two together for the whole house which only consisted of asemi finished kitchen,two baths,and wash room.I figured I would hook the others up as the rooms got finished and save some work,but I dont think I would ever go back to a tank unless I had to.The unlimited hot water,and the savings are just to great.I completly took out my gas line and that was a savings of over a grand a month in the winter,and electric only went up $3 in the summer and 5-8 in the winter
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:37 AM   #22
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I really appreciate the response. After delving into my setup a bit more I would have had to upgrade my inside service from 100 to 200 amp and then I discovered I needed to run copper pipe from well pressure tank to hot water heater location............got to be too involved and costly. Maybe next year I will make the switch.
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Old 08-30-2009, 10:21 AM   #23
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Just FYI, I found in doing my research, that a whole house electric Tankless requires a 300 amp service.
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:06 PM   #24
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The tankless heater I was looking into only needed 2 x 40 amp double pole breakers (still a huge amount, but should have been able to run it off of 200 amp service. My outside Service is 200 amp, would have had to just upgrade the inside panel (when I say just I mean run new wire from main to sub, new sub, new breakers, wire from heater to sub). Would have been manageable, but the additional costs and time of running new copper pipe was just too much now. I may research more into service required for these heaters, and break the work up into smaller projects.
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:31 PM   #25
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Why don't you use PEX pipe? I'm changing my house over to it. It's cheap.
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:46 PM   #26
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http://waterheaterrescue.com/pages/W.../tankless.html
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Old 09-01-2009, 12:43 PM   #27
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I did the same thing ran pex through out the house but copper to and from the heater as the instruction said to but only the 30 some inches it required and it was a ton cheeper and very easy

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