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Old 05-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #1
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super hot boiler


I posted this couple of weeks ago. Then the boiler fired up and worked. Now I am having the same problem again. I have repeated the problem below.

I have my expansion tank replaced as it was full of water. There was heat for a few days and then there was no heat. . The plumber came back and replaced my zone valve Honeywell model V8043G1018 and the plumber asked what temp. do I like the room temp. at ?. I replied 20 degrees C. I was not there to see him do it but I think he adjusted the room thermostat ( this is my guess). There was heat for a few days, then there was no heat. Now, the boiler does not fire up even when I adjust my thermostat to 30 degrees C. What is the problem?.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:36 PM   #2
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the stat calls the zone valve then the end switch within the zone valve calls the boiler on.see if you can swing the zone valve manually from the push bar on it.if the stat is calling the zone valve you should have no resisitance on the bypass bar..as soon as the zone swings to heat the circulator should come on followed by the boiler making a setpoint within itself from the temp module mounted on it.
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:25 PM   #3
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Hi biggles. Do I need to turn stat to zero position before I manually move zone valve?.

Last edited by xdavidx; 05-09-2012 at 03:26 PM. Reason: typing
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:16 PM   #4
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Do I need to turn stat to zero position before I manually move zone valve?.

David, No the stat should be in a call for heat position. When it is in the call for heat position the small lever on the bottom of the xone valve should be able to move easily side to side. If you look at the bottom of the valve where this lever is lovated you will see a slot with a small hook that the lever cam move in. The little hook is a way to manualy kep the valve open.
Since you had a zone valve replaced, I am going to assume you have more than one zone. Do the other zones work?
I am curious to this as it can tell us if the zone valve was installed and wired correctly or if there is a problem with the aquastat that cotrols the boiler itself

Last edited by danpik; 05-11-2012 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:05 PM   #5
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There are 3 zone valves. The boiler fired when the other thermostats were adjusted to heat. When the boiler fires, I have heat in my room. I then turn the stat in my room to 30 degrees C but there is no more heat. I touched zone valve to my room. It is hot to touch whereas the other 2 zone valves are warm. I also touched the pipes to the other zones and my room. The pipes to the zones are hot. There is heat going to the the zones. The pipe to my room is just warm. But the return pipes are cool.. After a while the boiler shuts off.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #6
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My guess is the same as it was in the other post. You have air trapped in the zone that is not getting heat. The pipe coming into the room getting a little warm tells me the zone valve is open but, the pipe coming out of the room is cold tells me water is not flowing.

Just thought of something. If the plumber who replaced the valve shut off the return isolation valve to that zone forgot to turn it back on....This would cause the same problem. Check for closed valves that should not be closed.

It is also possible that something could be ammiss with the valve itself. did he just change out the motor assembly (4 screws)on it or did he change out the entire valve assembly(unsolder joints and resolder in new valve). he may have misswired it as well. The easiest way to tell if the valve is functioning properly is to do the following.

...Turn the thermo to NOT call for heat. Observe the manual lever on the bottom of the zone valve. It should be all the way to one side in the slot and not move easily to the other side of the slot.
...next turn the thermo to call for heat. Two things should happen. the manual lever on the bottom of the zone valve should move to the other side of the slot or at least be able to be moved from side to side in the slot with no resistance. If this is the case the circulator pump, if you have one, will kick on. The boiler may or may not start depending on how hot the water is in it. If the pump does not start then there is a problem with how the plumber wired the zone valve.

Last edited by danpik; 05-11-2012 at 01:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:05 AM   #7
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Plumber did replaced the whole zone valve. I will try your suggestions. Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:02 AM   #8
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Sorry to revert after so long. I have been away.

I checked the cold water input tap. I found it was turned off. I turned it on and flushed the boiler system. After flushing, the pressure read 12 psi and the boiler fired.

I then tested the 3 stats. Two of them caused the boiler to fire. The 3rd stat did not. This zone valve connected to this stat is hot to touch but the pipes that are cold. This zone valve slides easily from manual to auto. There is no resistance.

Is this zone valve the problem?. It is a Honeywell 8043g1018.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdavidx View Post
Sorry to revert after so long. I have been away.

I checked the cold water input tap. I found it was turned off. I turned it on and flushed the boiler system. After flushing, the pressure read 12 psi and the boiler fired.
Good. That valve should always be open. The pressure regulator on the feed line will moderate the boiler pressure to 12PSI as you found out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xdavidx View Post
I then tested the 3 stats. Two of them caused the boiler to fire. The 3rd stat did not. This zone valve connected to this stat is hot to touch but the pipes that are cold. This zone valve slides easily from manual to auto. There is no resistance.

Is this zone valve the problem?. It is a Honeywell 8043g1018.
This is interesting... if the man/auto slider moves freely then the valve is in the open position and anytime the boiler is running water will be flowing thru that zone. Check the return line for that zone and make sure there is no valve closed. some systems have isolator valves (all should have them) so work can be done on the boiler without having to drain the entire system or so zones can be shut down if they are not needed.

I am thinking though, that if the pipe past the valve is cold, that the zone valve is defective. I suspect this for two reasons...One, there is no water flow and second because if the valve is open, the contacts in the valve should cause the boiler to fire. It is entirely posible that it also is not wired properly. I would call the plumber who did this work back to see what is wrong. He "should" stand behind his work and make this right.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:33 PM   #10
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Thank you. Before I joined this website, I did speak with the owner and CEO of the plumbimg co. about this but he was evasive. He wants charge me every time he sends someone. and I had always pay him after the work was completed. I know I have options against this company for workmanhip but I rather be a peace maker and let this matter pass.

It is very strange. I have no problem at all with my boiler until I called a plumber to do maintenance and servicing. I have nothing against tradesmen in general but I just found a "bad" company.

I chose this co. because it was established (14 + years in business) and is a Better Business Bureau member. As per BBB they have no compliant on record.

A very good thing came out of this. I researched and found many websites with helpful people that offer good information and advice and I now have a very good idea how my boiler worked and can do baisc maintenance on it. Before this, I have no idea. I just have to be careful about who I chose in future.
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