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Old 02-24-2011, 09:01 AM   #1
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


Last summer, during a heavy rainfall, the clamp right above the check valve got loose and we had a geiser in our basement. After much cleaning, I removed clamps and cemented all connections. We have two pumps in our pit and one just failed yesterday. I need to pull everything out and replace the bad pump. Needless to say, it would be easier to just loosen a clamp where as now I need to cut.

My questions: Is it common for plumbers to use clamps? Should I put one back on for ease of working later? Perhaps it was a fluke that it came loose last time. If a clamp is recommended vs. more permanent cementing, how hard are they typically torqued down to ensure a tight fit?

Thanks!

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Old 02-24-2011, 10:52 AM   #2
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


Use a threaded union instead

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Old 02-24-2011, 11:05 AM   #3
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


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Use a threaded union instead
Something like this?

I assume this would just rotate out while not needing to rotate the pump assembly?
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:18 AM   #4
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


No, like this:

2" schedule 40 solvent weld union - Do a Google image search and you'll see a bunch of 'em

http://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Indust.../dp/B000BP7Z2U
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:20 AM   #5
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


Don't forget, the ejection lines need check valves also.

EDIT - So on the ejection side, find a solvent weld check valve with unions on each end also
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:46 AM   #6
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Thank you Lateral. I'll have to look for those at Lowes and/or Home Depot. As far as "ejection lines", I assume you're talking about check valves on each pump. I am attaching a few pics of my setup and the original before I added a 2nd pump for back-up purposes.

You may ask why the pipe goes right back into the slab. It is an odd setup but the line goes down and under the house (to the other side ~20 feet), then up 8 feet and ejects under our porch into another larger pipe which i was told by the builder, send water to the "storm sewer". I've since read this is not usually allowed but it was that way when I bought the house new.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:51 AM   #7
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


I'll also add that I was later told I should have put the check valves up higher (not directly on the pumps) but I didn't have enough room at the top of the pit to do that. I have since thought about lengthening the line before it drops back into the slab so I'd have more room to mount the check valves higher. See attached.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:32 PM   #8
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


unions don't always work, you won't be able to get the lid off of the basin with them. i always use shielded couplings (nohubs), they tend to be a bit stronger than ferncos. or glue it all together but leave room to cut it in the future when you need to get into it
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:24 PM   #9
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


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Originally Posted by henlij View Post
I'll also add that I was later told I should have put the check valves up higher (not directly on the pumps) but I didn't have enough room at the top of the pit to do that. I have since thought about lengthening the line before it drops back into the slab so I'd have more room to mount the check valves higher. See attached.
If I'm not mistaking, you have 3 check valves on your system already. You labeled 2 at the pumps(or are those male adapters) and the third one is above the tank, below the 90. Thats the one to keep, and it has a fernco attached to help when disassembling. Loosen the clamps on the bottom fernco(the black rubber coupling) slid it down the pipe and pull your pumps.

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Old 02-24-2011, 07:53 PM   #10
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


Discharging water from a sump pump into a storm sewer in legal in most ares. This is where the water usually ends up going even when discharged on the ground. Discharging into sanitary sewer is usually not legal unless your community has a combined sewer system (storm water and runoff go into the combined line) since many older systems cannot feasibly or economically updated and the problem is that storm water must go through the sewage treatment plant.

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Old 02-25-2011, 12:02 PM   #11
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


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unions don't always work, you won't be able to get the lid off of the basin with them. i always use shielded couplings (nohubs), they tend to be a bit stronger than ferncos. or glue it all together but leave room to cut it in the future when you need to get into it
Thanks for the suggestion. I picked up a couple nohubs last night. They seem quite nice. I also read that they should be tightened to 60lbs so when I use them, I'll be sure to crank them down good.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:11 PM   #12
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Sump Pump: Screw Type Clamp vs. Cementing ABS


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If I'm not mistaking, you have 3 check valves on your system already. You labeled 2 at the pumps(or are those male adapters) and the third one is above the tank, below the 90. Thats the one to keep, and it has a fernco attached to help when disassembling. Loosen the clamps on the bottom fernco(the black rubber coupling) slid it down the pipe and pull your pumps.
I should have added a label to that picture indicating that it was a pic of the original setup, before I added a 2nd pump. Your reply does prompt a follow-up question from me though. When I replace the 2nd pump (the one that failed), which of the following woud be considered a best practice.

1. Leave the two check valves (as seen in current pics, those with two pumps above) that are screwed right into the pump bodies as is.

2. Remove the two check valves from the pumps and just use one check valve after the two output lines Y together. I'm thinking this would NOT be recommended. But, I'm no plumber so I'll ask.

3. Install two check valves (one for each pump) before they Y and placed further away from the pump. (ie, not screwed right into the pump body.). I've seen many pics like this where straight pipes come up from the pit, through the cover, then tie into the check valves, and then "Y".

Thanks all.
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:29 PM   #13
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I'd use option #3- your valves will be accessible for service and both pumps are isolated with their own check valve

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