I have a 5-yr old house in the NE with a traditional basement about 7' below grade which has never been wet in the past. 2 weeks ago during a big thaw, we got water seeping in at the base of the floor/foundation. The sump well was covered and has a 4" pvc pipe installed in it that is used for a radon mitigation system (the pipe runs to the exterior of the house where a fan exhausts it about 20' off the ground.) I never messed with this well, but when we flooded, I removed the cover and found it full of water. A .5HP sump pump later, and the water stopped flooding the basement altogether. I had a plumber install the pump, and reseal the well to continue with the radon mitigation. Problem solved, but I have a few question regarding how to drain this water, as the pump now runs every 4-5 minutes as the well fills (even in cold weather). Since it was 5 degrees at the time, I had the plumbers install a 1.5" pvc run directly to a nearby vent stack which drains to my septic system (1500 gals). Picture of that is right here. I realize this is not an ideal solution for my septic system, but it worked short term. I'd like to install a 3-way diverter in that 1.5" pvc pipe and and have a valve that could easily re-route the water out of the house thru the sill, especially when it gets warm enough for me to bury a drainage pipe and connect it to a nearby pipe that drains my gutters to the forest. Question: can I cut into that horizontal pvc pipe (in the picture above) and install a diverter like this one? Will there be any problems with a .5HP pump sending a burst of water into a diverter like this? Also, the plumbers installed the check valve (see pic) above the sump well cover. This valve makes an audible 'pop' every time the water pumps out, and tries to back flow to the check valve. If I revise the plumbing (as described above) can I put that check valve above the pump, but under the well cover, to minimize the sound (as I can hear it at night)? Thx in advance.
You can situate the check valve right above the pump. A deverter valve isn't a great idea in my opinion, especially when it involves the septic. I can't believe that a responsible plumber would install the sump system to the septic in the first place! I'd suggest eliminating the line to the septic and running the pump to your forest as you suggested. If the line runs downhill then freezing shouldn't be an issue.