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r0ckstarr 01-31-2013 10:11 AM

Suggestions on a broken copper water line that goes to the yard
 
On the backside of my house, there is a faucet for a water hose that comes out of the wall. From the bottom of this connection, someone ran another water line, with another valve, out to the yard.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8215/8...c33d2061_z.jpg
IMGP4027 by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

There was a chain link fence here, that they used to keep animals in. I've taken down the fence, and decided to test the water. The line is busted somewhere under the concrete slab out in the yard. When I turn it on, water comes up from under the concrete.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8325/8...14fee910_z.jpg
IMGP4039 by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

The picture above isn't that great, but if you look to the left of the flower pots, right near the concrete dust where I cut off the fence pole, you will see one of the faucets that they had.

Following the concrete down, there is another faucet. This one can be seen at the top of the photo here:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8...af34560e_z.jpg
IMGP4038 by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

I'm thinking that they ran the water pipe through the concrete. Water doesn't make it to either of the faucets in the yard. I have no interest in ever using these 2 faucets, or repairing them. I intend to remove them from the yard in the future.

My concern is this. What if the valve in the very first picture leaks, or is already leaking. I would never know because the pipe is broken under the concrete slab somewhere. I would like to cut the pipe off before the valve and cap it off somehow. How would you suggest I go about doing so.

I have never sweated pipe before, but I can braze weld rust holes in car panels like there is no tomorrow.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3456/3...a68_z.jpg?zz=1
... by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

Obviously, the two are different, but im not completely ignorant to the process. :laughing:

joecaption 01-31-2013 10:23 AM

Follow that line back to where it comes from .
Shut off the main water, open the vale to relieve the pressure, cut the pipe with a tubing cutter, and just slip on a Shark Bite cap. No soldering needed.

funfool 01-31-2013 10:32 AM

I am curious where the pipe exits the house, if you have access to it from under the house, that is where I would terminate it.
Less chance of freezing, will not be an eyesore sticking out of the wall.
Might consider installing a frost free hose bib there, looks like a deck and may be a good place to have a hose connection.

r0ckstarr 01-31-2013 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funfool (Post 1106325)
I am curious where the pipe exits the house, if you have access to it from under the house, that is where I would terminate it.
Less chance of freezing, will not be an eyesore sticking out of the wall.
Might consider installing a frost free hose bib there, looks like a deck and may be a good place to have a hose connection.

Here's a better pic showing where it exits the wall.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8...9334783f_z.jpg
IMGP4052 by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

joecaption 01-31-2013 10:52 AM

Amazing to me what's allowed to be done in differant areas of the country.
One of these would look a whole lot better then what you have now.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

r0ckstarr 01-31-2013 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1106356)
Amazing to me what's allowed to be done in differant areas of the country.
One of these would look a whole lot better then what you have now.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

I agree, that would look alot better. Installing that would mean taking down sheet rock on the inside though to get access to the pipe.

I like the idea of the shark bite cap. Then I can just do away with the line out to the yard completely. Thanks for the info. I didn't even know something like this existed. :thumbsup:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQqgyTX9tok

profcolli 01-31-2013 01:45 PM

you might want to caulk where those two pipes go into the house...

r0ckstarr 01-31-2013 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by profcolli (Post 1106480)
you might want to caulk where those two pipes go into the house...

Any particular reason, or is it just to keep bugs out?

Fairview 01-31-2013 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1106356)
Amazing to me what's allowed to be done in differant areas of the country.
One of these would look a whole lot better then what you have now.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=0

I'm glad to see the government isn't in control of every move we make ( yet ).

So a freeze proof is installed. Who's going to dictate that the garden hose is disconnected each fall for winterizing? More government codes?

profcolli 01-31-2013 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r0ckstarr (Post 1106483)
Any particular reason, or is it just to keep bugs out?

Up here in Canada, it would be for keeping the weather out but yeah, I wouldn't want any bugs either - I guess the Texas varieties might be worse than ours :wink:

wrongdave 01-31-2013 02:22 PM

If you've brazed sheet metal, you will have no problem sweating copper fittings. Prep is very important (cleaning and flux), but after that it practically solders itself. I'm sure there are tons of how-to s and videos online.

And in SE Texas, I'm thinking you probably don't need a freeze-proof faucet.

r0ckstarr 01-31-2013 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrongdave (Post 1106517)
If you've brazed sheet metal, you will have no problem sweating copper fittings. Prep is very important (cleaning and flux), but after that it practically solders itself. I'm sure there are tons of how-to s and videos online.

And in SE Texas, I'm thinking you probably don't need a freeze-proof faucet.

Thanks. Didn't think it was much different.

As for our winters, they last about 2 weeks and then we're back up to warm weather again. It was in the mid 70's today.

Quote:

Originally Posted by profcolli (Post 1106510)
Up here in Canada, it would be for keeping the weather out but yeah, I wouldn't want any bugs either - I guess the Texas varieties might be worse than ours :wink:

There are slots at the bottom of the bricks called weep holes. You can somewhat see them in the last photo I posted. The weather and bugs can get in there too.

DannyT 01-31-2013 10:18 PM

just cut it and cap it under the shutoff valve

profcolli 01-31-2013 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r0ckstarr (Post 1106850)
There are slots at the bottom of the bricks called weep holes. You can somewhat see them in the last photo I posted. The weather and bugs can get in there too.

I don't think weepholes go right through to the interior of the house like those pipes....

r0ckstarr 02-01-2013 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyT (Post 1106885)
just cut it and cap it under the shutoff valve

Picked up the cap last night. Home Depot didn't have any in stock, so I went to Lowes and got one called a Gator Bite cap.

Quote:

Originally Posted by profcolli (Post 1106899)
I don't think weepholes go right through to the interior of the house like those pipes....

Ah! Did not know that. I just assumed there was a small open space between the bricks and interior walls, lol. :laughing:


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