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Old 06-11-2013, 10:45 AM   #1
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


I recently purchased this house.
I have a shut off valve in my basement for an outside water spigot. The outside water wasn't working so I tried to open up the valve (not the waste) and water started coming out of the valve stem. When I tightened it, the water stopped. But I'm thinking the whole fitting needs replacing. Currently its a soldered fitting. I'm wondering if this is something that would be served ok with a compression fitting replacement? or should I replace with another soldered fitting? it's 1/2" copper pipe.

Thanks
Andy

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Old 06-11-2013, 10:52 AM   #2
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


If it were me in your situation I would just solder the fitting. My rule of thumb on my jobs is to replace what's there or at least bring it up to the local codes. But your compression fitting idea has me curious?

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Old 06-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #3
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


Open the valve and then snug the bonnet. It's not uncommon for shut offs to leak around the stem. Particularly on valves that don't get used much. If snugging the bonnet doesn't stop the leak, then replace the valve.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:19 AM   #4
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


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Originally Posted by Maintenance 6 View Post
Open the valve and then snug the bonnet. It's not uncommon for shut offs to leak around the stem. Particularly on valves that don't get used much. If snugging the bonnet doesn't stop the leak, then replace the valve.
What's the bonnet?

Sorry if that's a stupid question.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #5
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


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Originally Posted by AJPLeBlanc View Post
What's the bonnet?
The bonnet is the hex shaped piece at the shaft which you tightened down... it has a packing under it.

If you do replace it... sweated copper.
Develop this skill if you don't already have it.

Before you go farther... get a meter key ($10 at Lowes).
Then locate the meter box (at the street?) and the valve out there.

Always know where the next valve up the line is before messing with any valve in the house. Know that YOU are able to shut off that source water just in case. On a practical basis this means to "exercise" these valves now and then (once a year is plenty)

Last edited by TarheelTerp; 06-11-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:43 AM   #6
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


The main water shutoff is about 6 feet away (There is a T and a water meter between), and there is a water outlet about 3 feet on the opposite side (with another "outside" water sensor between).

I'll have a look at the bonnet, thanks for the information.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:30 PM   #7
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


You stopped the leak at the valve stem by tightening it which means you fixed it. Why replace it? The ability to tighten the "cap" that you tightened is there for just the reason you used it and not a sign that the valve needs replacing.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:24 PM   #8
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


It's called a packing nut.
If you do chose to replace it replace with a Shark bite ball valve, then there's no soldering needed.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:48 PM   #9
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by AJPLeBlanc View Post
What's the bonnet?

Sorry if that's a stupid question.
Its the packing nut. A bonnet is a hat worn by a little girl.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:50 AM   #10
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


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Originally Posted by old_squid View Post
You stopped the leak at the valve stem by tightening it which means you fixed it. Why replace it? The ability to tighten the "cap" that you tightened is there for just the reason you used it and not a sign that the valve needs replacing.
I forgot to mention that even when I loosen the valve stem, and there is water coming out of the base of the stem, no water comes out of the tap outside the house. This is the problem, basically I can't use my outside water source. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try to snug the packing nut, and if that doesn't work, will replace.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:07 AM   #11
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by AJPLeBlanc View Post
I forgot to mention that even when I loosen the valve stem, and there is water coming out of the base of the stem, no water comes out of the tap outside the house. This is the problem, basically I can't use my outside water source. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try to snug the packing nut, and if that doesn't work, will replace.
You can replace the packing that is under the packing nut you know. You seem eager to replace the valve....If you do replace it- don't use a compression style. Try to solder it if you can. Compression valves seem to leak after time
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:08 AM   #12
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


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Originally Posted by AJPLeBlanc View Post
...there is water coming (past the packing) at the stem...
I'll try to snug the packing nut, and if that doesn't work, will replace.
or just replace the 5 cent o-ring (aka packing)
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #13
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
You can replace the packing that is under the packing nut you know. You seem eager to replace the valve....If you do replace it- don't use a compression style. Try to solder it if you can. Compression valves seem to leak after time
It's not so much that I'm eager to replace the valve, it just looks like it's a 50 year old piece, and I wasn't aware that they could be repaired.

Thanks for the input on the compression fitting, that's the information I was looking for. I'm pretty comfortable soldering.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:22 AM   #14
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Stop and Waste valve replacement


See if these photos help you. This shutoff would not completely shut the water off to the outdoor faucet. Came to find out the stem washer was cracked.
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Stop and Waste valve replacement-stem-apart.jpg   Stop and Waste valve replacement-damaged-washer.jpg   Stop and Waste valve replacement-damg-washer.jpg   Stop and Waste valve replacement-full.jpg  

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