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-   -   Spanner flange didn't work, I'm moving onto "Super Ring" (

J187 07-27-2006 07:41 AM

Spanner flange didn't work, I'm moving onto "Super Ring"
So, after trying to get the spanner flange to work unsuccessfully, I decided to try my luck with a super ring.

I am planning to screw down the six outside ears to the floor. Problem is, the concrete subfloor ends right around the area I would be scewing into, so I think my only option is to drill through the concrete or chisel it back and screw the ring all the way into the wood subfloor. I've got 1 inch of tile and 1 1/2 inch of concrete and 1" of flange to scew through. So I'd be using something like 4 1/2" Stainless screws... Does anyone see a problem with this?

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 07:52 AM

Make sure you silicone between the two metal surfaces.

J187 07-27-2006 07:56 AM

yeah, I would caulk between the metal flanges and heavily between each spacer - I need two spacers after tiling over tile. Thanks.

J187 07-27-2006 08:20 AM

I supposed another option would be to set the six screws into the new ring, lay it onto of the old flange and then pour some sort of concrete-based product around it to set the screws in.

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 08:25 AM

Not so sure that will be strong enough to hold it in place, so you saying this is a cement floor? You may need to use concreat anchors to secure it.

J187 07-27-2006 09:49 AM

No, the concrete underlayment is cut back too far to scew to. I would either have to go all the way down to the subfloor, or Take a couple 3 inch bolts. Thread a wide washer and a nut on the bottom, set the whole thing into place and pouir anchoring cement all around it. It should give a me at least a 2" tall, 8 inch wide circle of cement base, and it would bond itno the concrete sides. I think it should hold.

Ron The Plumber 07-27-2006 08:17 PM

Ok give it a try, it sounds right, good luck


J187 07-28-2006 07:15 AM

Thanks Ron for all the help, here is what ended up working. See the 4 holes on the inner part of the new ring? I drilled whatever meat of the old cast flange I had left and put 1" Brass bolts through. With a pair of needle-nose, I was able to thread on a nut from the underside and got 4 1" bolts secured to the old flange. Next, I was able to get the two side outer holes screwed down into the plywood subfloor using 3" stainless screws. Thew on 2 plastic spacers, siliconed the hell out of the flange to plastic spacer and between the plastic spacers, threw on a nice new old-fashioned coneless wax donut and I was done. Works perfectly so far, nice level toilet, no leaks, no rocking, solid. I don't even think I'll caulk the base of it at all. Thanks again..

Ron The Plumber 07-28-2006 07:21 AM

:thumbsup: Great, watch it for a few days for leaks, afterwards you will want to caulk the base, caulk all but the backside, caulking will keep water from getting under it if you do happen to get water on the floor.

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