soldering copper pipe on a shower mixing valve.

Ed911

I recently purchased an American Standard R127 mixing valve for a shower that I'm doing.

There is a warning on the valve that says, caution, excessive heat will melt plastic internal parts. Being ever cautious, I called their customer serivce...twice...both times, I was told to disassemble the valve and sweat the up-pipe and tub plug in place, and then reassemble the mixing valve...

I can actually see where this would be adviseable...since I can see plastic parts just below the outlet, or inlet, can't remember which...

Can this be true? I questioned the customer service rep about that not being in the instructions that came with the valve. She told me that, the reason was that experienced installers would know to do this.

There appears to be parts that could be damaged if disassembled...like, o-rings.

Not only that, but before I bought the R127 mixing valve, I called American Standard customer service and asked if it would work with their Hampton shower trim kit...and was assured that it would. Nope...the handle on the Hampton fits a splined shaft...like on their R117 mixing valve, but not the notched metal adapter on the R127.

So, I now I have to return the R127 valve and buy an R117 mixing valve.

Can I tell you how much that I hate talking to customer service reps that are winging it.

Anyways, that's my rant. I would appreciate some insight and help here.

Thanks for taking time to read this.

TarheelTerp

It's called a learning curve.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Learning_curve

oh'mike

Poor choice of valves---American Standard parts are not stocked by any plumbing supply houses (or box stores) in this area.

All brands of mixer valves need to have the guts removed for soldering---what exctly is worrieng you about that process?

My choice of valve brands are Moen or Delta----

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Ed911

Thanks Mike. Nothing bothers me about removing the guts...I've worked in industry for decades...and this appears straight forward. I was just looking for comments, because I'm not familiar with plumbing practices.

I bought the valve, because we liked the trim kit...only to find that I have to send it back because it's the wrong one...the picture on Amazon and the American Standard customer service are both wrong.

One of the reasons that I went online was to find a valve that's compatible with pex...and this one as well as the R117 have pex inlets with sweated outlets. I'm comfortable with the soldering. And, I'll leak check it before I wall it in.

TheEplumber

Using pex to supply water to the valve is fine but do not use it to the tub spout. Although it is O.K. to use pex to the shower head, I still use copper pipe.

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Ed911

No tub spout...no tub...this is going to be a shower only affair. So the down pipe will get a plug and the up pipe "L" copper tubing.

The reason for the pex inlets, is that I recently had my home, or most of it replumbed with pex...so, it's just easier to run pex to the inlets...and sweat the plug and copper up pipe.

Thanks for your comments...

VIPlumber

Ed,

The rep was right. You'll have to disassemble to the valve in order to sweat on the shower arm and tub spout. Looks like its sweat fittings according to the pic I found.

Ed911

Yep, going to do that today...then mount it...getting ready for the plumber to stub in the bathroom water service...tub, toilet, and bath.

Thanks, Ed