Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-11-2006, 11:52 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 31
Share |
Default

Soldering 1/4 turn valves


I am wondering what is the professional way to solder 1/4 turn (ball) fixture valves? I have heard that the valve should be open, it should be closed, you must dismantle it, etc. Is there an industry standard? I know that applying too much heat while soldering can damage the plastic seal of the valve, but other than that I don't know of anything else I should try to avoid. Any comments are welcome. Thanks.

Manuel6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2006, 11:58 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Default

Soldering 1/4 turn valves


is the valve has any threaded pipe... my experience is to unthread the pipe and solder it separately then thread it back once it cool off...

if the valve has no threaded pipe and need to directly solder... I don't know what else can you do except do it as fast as possible... but normally for somthing like that, the plastic parts should be quite distance from the position where required solidering and it will not be a problem unless it is being solder for too long...

well I have only done plumbing once for my basement bathroom/laundry room... although for the whole thing...

KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2006, 02:32 PM   #3
sz8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
Default

Soldering 1/4 turn valves


shutoff valve of my water heater with a ball valve.

Instead of using a solder-on type valve, I am thinking of using a thread
type valve with two pipe-to-male-thread adapter (don't know
the right team) at each side of the valve.

With this way, I can solder the first adapter to one end of the pipe, screw
the valve on, screw the second adapter on to the valve and then solder the
second adapter to the other end of the pipe.

The valve only needs to go through one soldering with the adapter in between (also teflon tape or similar compound) to isolate the heat.
According to my finding, compound (likely teflon tape as well) can take
600F while solder melting point is only around 400 F. So, it should be
ok to do this way.

Another advantage of such setup will be that it is much easier for changing
the heater/valve next time.

Am I correct?

SZ
sz8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Comfortmaker furnace won't turn on steelframe8459 HVAC 36 11-30-2011 03:22 PM
replacing shut off valves glassman Plumbing 1 03-28-2007 10:26 PM
Main valve not working. Water won't turn on! skellies Plumbing 1 10-31-2006 02:17 AM
Shut Off Valves Coach Gordon Plumbing 2 04-24-2006 03:13 PM
Faucet won't turn off etiger Plumbing 1 08-31-2005 02:46 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.