I am wondering what is the professional way to solder 1/4 turn (ball) fixture valves? I have heard that the valve should be open, it should be closed, you must dismantle it, etc. Is there an industry standard? I know that applying too much heat while soldering can damage the plastic seal of the valve, but other than that I don't know of anything else I should try to avoid. Any comments are welcome. Thanks.
is the valve has any threaded pipe... my experience is to unthread the pipe and solder it separately then thread it back once it cool off...
if the valve has no threaded pipe and need to directly solder... I don't know what else can you do except do it as fast as possible... but normally for somthing like that, the plastic parts should be quite distance from the position where required solidering and it will not be a problem unless it is being solder for too long...
well I have only done plumbing once for my basement bathroom/laundry room... although for the whole thing...
shutoff valve of my water heater with a ball valve.
Instead of using a solder-on type valve, I am thinking of using a thread
type valve with two pipe-to-male-thread adapter (don't know
the right team) at each side of the valve.
With this way, I can solder the first adapter to one end of the pipe, screw
the valve on, screw the second adapter on to the valve and then solder the
second adapter to the other end of the pipe.
The valve only needs to go through one soldering with the adapter in between (also teflon tape or similar compound) to isolate the heat.
According to my finding, compound (likely teflon tape as well) can take
600F while solder melting point is only around 400 F. So, it should be
ok to do this way.
Another advantage of such setup will be that it is much easier for changing
the heater/valve next time.