I just soldered new tubing for my bathtub/shower plumbing. Everything seemed to have went well. My solder job is terrible, as you can see in the pics, but it is my first time and it did the trick. I removed the valve prior to soldering as to not damage it from the heat. Well, after I replaced the valve and tested it, the solder joints didn't leak, but as I turned the valve only a tiny bit of water trickled out. That is my first of two issues. I'm wondering, is it the brand new valve that's the problem or could it be something else?
My second question is this: As you can see in the picture of the inside of the valve housing, there is no hole up top where the water would go to the shower. What of this? how does the water make its way up to the shower head? This may be a silly question, but this is my first time at any of this.
DIYChatroom.com - Are you about to start a new home improvement task and need some help? Do you need advise on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that DIY Chatroom is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally free.
Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. DIYChatroom.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any home improvement task!
Yes I installed the unit correctly. I think I may need to flush out the pipes. Did I damage the valve by not flushing the pipes out? What is the correct way to flush out the pipes?
Also, is there supposed to be an opening up top for the water to flow to the shower or no?
The Following User Says Thank You to JadRutherford For This Useful Post:
A couple things to mention: When I removed the valve and turned the water on it came out full pressure, which leads me to believe it may be a faulty valve?
Also, I flushed thoroughly so I know that's not the problem. What a mystery...
I see a few first time errors that may cause your leak---
You should have soldered the pipe right inside of the threaded parts of the valve body---
The threaded female fittings--if used---must have the copper pipes soldered to them before dope and taping them to the valve body-----
When completely cool ,they can then be threaded onto the valve body---any soldering near the threaded connection will require you to wrap the threaded fitting with a cold wet rag to prevent the heat from disturbing the dope and tape---
You forgot the knockers---
Hopefully you removed the plastic cartridge prior to soldering--if not it will be spoiled and need replacing.
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
You have four openings. One is for hot incoming, one is for cold incoming, one is for tub (down) and one is for shower (up).
This looks more like a diverter valve than a mixing valve.
What is the make and model number?
I see a few first time errors that may cause your leak---
You should have soldered the pipe right inside of the threaded parts of the valve body---
The threaded female fittings--if used---must have the copper pipes soldered to them before dope and taping them to the valve body-----
When completely cool ,they can then be threaded onto the valve body---any soldering near the threaded connection will require you to wrap the threaded fitting with a cold wet rag to prevent the heat from disturbing the dope and tape---
You forgot the knockers---
Hopefully you removed the plastic cartridge prior to soldering--if not it will be spoiled and need replacing.
Thank you for your help. I will add knockers and end up resoldering everything. The issue, however, is not with leaks in the pipes. The issue is when I turn the valve water only trickles out. When I the valve is removed and I open the cutoff the water comes out just fine (full pressure). I took the valve out while I soldered so I know that's not the problem. I apologize for not being more clear.
You have four openings. One is for hot incoming, one is for cold incoming, one is for tub (down) and one is for shower (up).
This looks more like a diverter valve than a mixing valve.
What is the make and model number?
I used a 5 gal bucket to capture the water in when I tested it. The spout is in, the overflow is not (no particular reason other than I'm ADD). You know, I never did know exactly how much flux to use. They said it's better to use too much than too little so I guess I went overboard. My soldering is sloppy too...mainly because I'm so paranoid that I will have missed a spot to I end up using like an inch on 1/2" pipe (I know only use 1/2 on 1/2 pipe). Really I'm just glad I didn't burn myself or the house down with that torch...I'm terribly clumsy!
Well, after searching around the web I decided that since I forgot to flush before I put in the new valve, some of that extra flux and debris got into the valve and messed it up. I'm off to Lowes tomorrow to get a new valve...
Solder it---If you don't have any leaking solder joints now---and water blasts out of the valve body ---
but doesn't come out properly when the cartridge is installed--
I would suspect the cartridge is faulty---
If I were in your shoes--I'd stick in a new cartridge---and see what's up--
You may be all right without air chambers---see if the cartridge is faulty---I've never run into a valve body wrecked during soldering--
Yes I will be making a trip in the morning to get another valve. I think it's my fault for not flushing all that flux (along with bit of copper Im sure) out before installing the new valve. I am going to redo the whole setup with less flux and hopefully cleaner soldering too. I want this to be a nice job. So why exactly do you say I should go with soldering over compression fittings?
Also, the old setup never had air chambers and the pipes stayed quiet. Is this common practice in new installs?