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76bronco 03-23-2013 12:49 PM

Slow Bathroom Sink
 
2 Attachment(s)
House was built in the 1950s.
Our bathroom sink was leaking after replacing the vanity due to the drain in the sink not lining up with the existing plumbing.

Cut away the existing PVC and replaced it with new. Did it almost exactly the same with a different cleanout. About a week after replacing this, the sink drains very very slowly, but still drains. I've snaked the pipe once without feeling any obstructions.
In the picture below you can see, on the far right side, the threaded coupling. That goes into the cast iron (or galvanized) line and "T"s into the stack within a few inches.
All the PVC is new.. Other than an obstruction down the line that I wasn't able to get to, could there be another issue..
The toilet and shower in the bathroom work without issue. It's just the sink.

I to cut all of this out and redo it, but that's the only thing I can think of.

Thanks in advance!

The picture with the rag is the before. The picture with the purple primer showing is after...

oh'mike 03-23-2013 01:27 PM

Could I ask why you did not use a standard trap and a trap adapter on the drain pipe?

That glued trap will make servicing the sink more work than it should be-----

Did you thoroughly rod the old steel drain line before you added your new pipe and trap?

Is there a vent on that line?

Have you tried the sink with the pop up stopper removed?

jagans 03-23-2013 01:42 PM

Your problem is invariably in the galvanized T to the right, or down from there. I would cut that out and use a fernco fitting to connect to the galvanized vent. Your PVC joints look poor to me. Pipe not primed, adapter not fully inserted. I suspect you had a small can of clear glue with a small dauber. You need to fully glue the bell, then glue the pipe, insert it into the bell fully, turn 1/4 turn, and hold. The heat of the glue reaction will try to force the connection apart. You also have a schedule 40 coupling there instead of DWV. Thats OK, but takes more room.

gregzoll 03-23-2013 02:51 PM

You need to replace the shut off valves if not done already also. They are probably all gummed up with corrosion, salts, and minerals. Easiest way to replace is cut the old, replace with 1/4 turn Shark bite ball valves, or if you have enough pipe sticking out, compression fittings will also work.

As for the slow draining, your dwv lines are all gummed up going down to the point where it exits the home, or clogged somewhere outside the house, causing the slow draining. You have some more work to do if able to get to the lines along the path to either replace if older steel piping. Old homes are always a charm. Then you just need to fix the drywall holes.

fetzer85 03-23-2013 03:18 PM

Everyone's advice is good but have you tried plunging it? If your sink has an overflow hole then grab a ziploc bag and wet washcloth to cover it. Depending on what you're dealing with it might just solve your issue. If it doesn't work then you've only spent a couple minutes of your time. Oh also, run the water before you start plunging, and leave it running while you plunge. If you manage to knock a clog loose the water accumulating in the sink will immediately rush down and possibly wash away your troubles.

gregzoll 03-23-2013 04:00 PM

Vingar & Baking Soda, then a chaser of a couple of gallons of very hot boiling water, can help, but really need a professional with the proper equipment to clear any grease, soap, hair, etc..

Ghostmaker 03-24-2013 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1143875)
Your problem is invariably in the galvanized T to the right, or down from there. I would cut that out and use a fernco fitting to connect to the galvanized vent. Your PVC joints look poor to me. Pipe not primed, adapter not fully inserted. I suspect you had a small can of clear glue with a small dauber. You need to fully glue the bell, then glue the pipe, insert it into the bell fully, turn 1/4 turn, and hold. The heat of the glue reaction will try to force the connection apart. You also have a schedule 40 coupling there instead of DWV. Thats OK, but takes more room.

Fernco fittings are not legal in over 35 state codes above the ground.

They do not hold the alignment of the pipe properly.

Ghostmaker 03-24-2013 05:49 PM

You need to disassemble the trap to the lav get a drill lav snake. Put an angle at the end about 3/4 inch from the end of your rod. this will help it negotiate the cast tee. You want it to go downwards in that tee. If it comes back clean you went the wrong way.

76bronco 03-25-2013 11:06 AM

Thanks for all the posts. they were all very helpful. Cut away the "new" drain line (since i glued it instead of a normal trap) and was able to run a drill snake down past the T and found a massive clog.
Reassembled everything with new DWV pipe instead of sch 40 and a trap with threads in case I need to get into it again.
Thanks again

brian

jagans 03-25-2013 12:51 PM

Thanks Brian,

Its nice to hear back from someone who you (or another poster) has helped, it makes you feel like your advice was worth something. All too often we never hear from people again, even though you are pretty sure you gave them good advice. I guess some people have a hard time being thankful for anything.

JimA


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