Sizing a dual shut off valve for a water line to fridge
I've read a lot of great topics posted to the forum about installing water lines to your refrigerator. I've gotten almost all my questions answered, but I still have concerns about sizing and connections.
Currently, as far as I can tell, I have a single shut off valve going to the cold water on my kitchen faucet (see attached image.) This valve has a flexible tube that connects up to a copper pipe that goes to the faucet (again, see attached.)
What I think I must do is: shut off main water, remove single valve and flexible pipe (which are a one-piece solution,) with a wrench install a dual shut off valve, connect water back to faucet and to the polyethylene water pipe going to fridge.
What I am concerned about is sizing. The bolt that connects to the wall water supply is about an inch big - but does this indicate it is connecting to a smaller pipe, and would that pipe be 1/2 inch?
Another concern - being that the single shut off valve I'm replacing is permanently attached to the flexible tube going to the faucet - I must replace this tube. What size is it? 3/8?
And as I understand it, virtually all refrigerator water lines are 1/4 inch.
If I am on the right track here, then I think this is what I need to purchase, along with a new flex pipe going to the faucet.
Again my biggest concern is sizing - I do not know how or where I should be measuring these connections.
PHEW! Thanks for sticking with me through that! I hope you can help!
Your existing valve is a compression angle stop. Replace it with a 5/8 x 3/8 x 1/4 three way valve. The 3/8 will go to the faucet. Use a new 1/2x3/8 braided supply line to replace your current supply. Run the 1/4" refer line to the 1/4" outlet of the 3-way.
You may have to use a compression ring puller to remove the existing nut from the copper supply that comes out of the wall. Once its off you can install the new valve described above. And you might as well do the hot side while your at it.
I just saw the link in your post, that valve will work. The pipe coming out of your wall is 5/8 O.D.(1/2 nom.)
I think you have all the info you need above, but I felt compelled to comment that I'd love to kill the person who invented those angle stops. What an idiot.
Thank you Eplumber. I do have an additional question after reading your response.
You say to use a 1/2x3/8 braided supply line, and this will replace that metal flex tube I have now. I understand that this is a 3/8 tube, but what is the 1/2 you are mentioning? Is it 1/2 on one end and 3/8 on the other? Perhaps the top connection, where it connects the the copper going into the faucet, is 1/2?
Thanks for the recommendation of the compression ring puller, I looked up a youtube video on it, looks to be very handy. I ought to just replace the compression nut even if it looks to be in good condition, just to be thorough, yes?
Thanks again for your reply, I feel better equipped to shop for parts. I didn't understand the difference between O.D. and nom.
By all means replace the nut as well, Sometimes the nuts have slightly different thread pattern so they don't mate well with the new valve.
Update - sketchy progress so far ...
So I've got some strikes and some gutters ...
Let me start by saying I allotted too little time for this. I thought I could do it on my lunch break. Well, it took 40+ minutes just to drain the water from the pipes (an apartment building.) And even when the faucets and shower were done draining, I come to find, as I remove the valve, that IT is not done draining.
So with a bucket filling up with water, I try to remove the ring and nut from the pipe using a compression ring remover. This was absolutely not working. I couldn't get the arms to stay gripped behind the nut. So in my panic, I simply installed the new valve with the old ring and nut. Should I go back and replace?
So far, I do not have a leak at the main connection point between the wall pipe and my new valve (i'll know more when I return home today D:)
Any thoughts? I think I have it tightened enough. How would I know if I over tightened?
Whow what a pain!
I agree with shooting the inventor of that one piece angle stop braided line! And we should add the slot screw inventor too. :)
If I understand it correctly, after what you have done now, you have a regular angle stop instead of the one piece mumbo jumbo?
If you do, you could simply buy an "Add a T" which will screw right into your 3/8 on that new angle stop you put on. This will give you your 2 lines to connect the fridge as well as the faucet.
What I've done is replaced a one-piece angle stop with a valve that has both a 3/8" and a 1/4" coming out of it. The input is 1/2" nom. All compression fittings, I believe, the ones with the metal ring that goes inside a nut and screws back into the valve.
What I didn't do was replace the old ring and nut. I used the the old ones, because I couldn't remove the damned ring, and just screwed the new valve into the old nut/ring combo. So far I don't detect a leak (but I'm not home right now to check.) Have you (or has anyone) left the old nut/ring combo on a pipe when installing a new valve, and should I expect problems from this?
As for the other connections, I believe the hose going to my faucet is secured fine, but I was unable to make a good connection between the new valve and the plastic tubing. I put the bolt over the tube, then the ring on the tube, and put the tube into the valve and tighten, but I got water leaking out.
So I have a couple problems, but the main one involves the old ring/nut combo being used to connect the new valve to the main water supply.
Your valve should be fine if its not leaking. As for the 1/4" plastic tubing, I suggest you buy a stainless steel braided line that are made for ice makers. The connections are fool proof
Well I arrived home, the two-fold paper tower I had wrapped around the entire works was - slightly moist. There is the slightest of leaks to the main pipe. I mean slight, I was gone four hours and it only got slightly moist. If I look at it for a long time I can observe a drop of water slowly build up.
I think this will get me by for now until I can schedule a plumber to clean up my mess. I'm afraid the leak is caused by an over-tightened fitting. Anyone's thought on this? Should I attempt to tighten further in case I am wrong and it is an under-tightened fitting? How would you diagnose the tightness?
On another note - I looked up longer braided stainless steel tubes for the icemaker. I find a 20' Watts one with a FloodSafe option, that I posted below. I've since read reviews that are less than kind to this type. Has anyone used one of these and had a good/bad experience?
Second edit above
I think THIS should work. Don't know about the FloodSafe feature, sounds good to me!
EDIT added above
Just like the one I bought to go to the faucet? That would be pretty awesome, i could believe it would stand up to time. However, I have to run the line about 20'. Could I buy the longest lengths they offer and run them tandem with some attachment?
I'm glad to hear that I am potentially OK with using the old nut/ring combo. When I get home, if its still all dry and good, I shall be able to sleep tonight. :laughing:
Thanks Eplumber, and thanks to everyone else who replied and took the time to read. Hopefully you'll hear no more from me - on this topic. :D
(but I would be curious to hear back from you about running those braided lines, Eplumber. I can't find a mega long one online, do they make them?)
As for the drip, sometimes when you re-use the nut and ferrule, the ferrule will be a little worn. I like to put a little pipe dope on the mating surface of the ferrule and the rear end of the angle stop. That usually does it when i can't get the old nut / ferrule to come off.
Someone makes a really fancy ferrule splitter, but i'm not sure how much they cost. I'd love to have one.
If you need 20 feet for your reefer line, you'll probably have to go with copper tubing. That's what i'd do. HD has the stuff in 25 ft rolls, and it should be around a dollar / ft.
Don't kink it. ;)
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