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Old 04-10-2007, 11:05 AM   #1
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Shut off valve trim ring question


I'm replacing a vanity with a pedestal sink in my 1/2 bath.. The supply lines ran up through the floor and have to be relocated to the wall. This is my first DIY plumbing project, so bear with me. The stage I'm at now is: Subfloor and wall board removed for access to the pipes, and I haven't purchaced the sink yet. I'm trying to get all the plumbing roughed in but have a couple questions.

1 - I'm having difficulty figuring out what to install after the final 90 deg. fitting to come through the wall for a clean look.

2 - What are the height measurements for the supply and drain on the wall?

3 - Also, the drain is off center between the supply lines. Should the drain be "on center" with the pedestal and supply lines?

Any tips you may have will be welcomed as well. Thanks.

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Old 04-10-2007, 11:34 AM   #2
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Shut off valve trim ring question


the supply lines are just 1/2 " cupper pipes out... you need to cap them or shut off the main switch to it... you put some thread type switch on them either straight or angle in/out... very easy.. just make sure you use two clamps when turning... no soldering require..

the drain pipe should be in center and make sure you don't cut them too short from the wall... everything has to be perfect fit from drain to the sink... you need to do dry fitting...

make sure you don't drill holes on the ground to install the pedrestain unit until you dry fit everything as you don't know its position until all pipes are in place...

also make sure you have wood backing on the wall to install the the pedrestain sink...

for height of the drain and supply lines, I kind of forget but sure someone will tell you later...

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Old 04-10-2007, 01:27 PM   #3
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Shut off valve trim ring question


I meant the stops. Is there a special fitting to go between the stop valves and the 1/2" copper pipe that is in the wall?

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Old 04-10-2007, 01:32 PM   #4
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Shut off valve trim ring question


nothing, copper pipe insert directly to above device (the bigger opening end) and you just turn the thread and it will hold up and no leak, very easy to install... the ring and the turning part are come with the above switch... no need to buy extra stuff...
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:43 PM   #5
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Shut off valve trim ring question


I think we're getting lost in translation here.

I'm installing NEW pipes in the wall, when the pipe comes through the wall, what gets soldered on the end for the cleanest look?
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:46 PM   #6
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Shut off valve trim ring question


you don't need to solder anthing the copper pipe from wall is open and water will come out.... if you have water supply and you cannot turn off the switch, you can solder a small cap which you need to cut out when installing above switch....
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:04 PM   #7
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Shut off valve trim ring question


Set drain for pedestal center at 22" and water at 24" off rough floor.
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:18 PM   #8
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Shut off valve trim ring question


All pedistals are not the same, why not get the specs out of the box and rough it in to the manufacturer's specs? Do it once and do it right.
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:40 AM   #9
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Shut off valve trim ring question


Not sure about your question but this is what I think you are asking. Supply valves are available in compression, sweat (solder) type and female threaded.Any way you go, you need to slide the escutcheon (trim ring) on before installing the valve. I prefer the sweat type because you may need to replace the valve later and may not find the same brand in compression type. Threaded valves are good also but you would need to sweat a male adapter on the copper pipe which will make it stick out further from the wall. Being hidden behind the pedestal, it should not matter though.
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:03 AM   #10
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Shut off valve trim ring question


Finally. So, I should buy stops that get soldered on for the cleanest look?

I bought the thread on stops, but figured they would look like crap in the end.
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:11 AM   #11
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Shut off valve trim ring question


I personally don't like solder switch. For majakdragon concern for finding right part for the valve... I would say forget about finding the part, just buy a new $5 switch and replace it if one is malfunctioning....

I think solder switch are cheaper and for company who want to save $$ for large installations... it is very inconvenience for home owner to replace/fix whenever the switch is not functioning... consider you need to heat the join and take the malfunction switch away... or cut the pipe make it shorter and shorter.. to me this is very troublesome...

I have no idea what do you mean by "clean look"...
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:14 AM   #12
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Shut off valve trim ring question


Jeekinz, The last sentence of my post covers it. The valves will be hidden by the pedestal. Do what is easiest for you in the future, should you need to remove/replace a valve.
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Old 04-11-2007, 11:17 AM   #13
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Shut off valve trim ring question


I printed some rough-in specs from Kohler. I see what you mean, they want 4" between centers on the water lines. I was under the impression the shut off valves would be in the same location as a vanity which is about 14" centers.
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Old 04-11-2007, 12:44 PM   #14
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Shut off valve trim ring question


The last pedestal I installed was 6" wide. That meant 4" centers on the waterlines and the drain line centered on them. Keeps everything compact and out of sight.

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