Shower Valve Rough In Tips?
Looked at the Delta installation manual....and while it seems pretty clear and straight forward.....they sometimes tend to take for granted what some people already know.....
Just want to confirm a couple of things with the experts....
Is the assumption that the plasterguard will be flush with the unfinished or finished (with tile) wall? I'm assuming unfinished....
They show a stringer behind the valve spanning the stud bay....I assume that this sets up the correct depth....
The instructions were pretty clear about removing the guts before any soldering is done. The last time (and only time) I did a shower valve, since I didn't want to sweat on the valve, I used threaded fittings....I sweated a part of the copper lines onto a female fitting....then sweated the whole mess into my lines....that way I was not putting heat on the valve. But I'm assuming that since these valves are pretty reliable....just sweat directly to the valve and don't worry about it...correct?
I'm still trying to decide how to do my shower walls....hot mop....membrain...Kerdi....
Do I do drywall then hardi-backer over that? Or just hardi-backer? If the valve plaster guard lines up with the drywall, does that mean I can't use hardi-backer?
Read the directions. I seem to think there is room to screw in a 2x backer behind the mixer.
I solder directly to the mixer. Remove the strainer thing and the innards first.
I like to line the walls with denshield, then hydroban.
Plaster guard to the finished face (tile)
1 1/2" is usually correct unless your backer or tile is unusually thick.
Sweat the pipes to the valve----leaking threaded fitting on shower mixers are common---
Deltas do not have the guts installed ----you add them after the install is complete--
No drywall in a wet area!!! even behind the cement backer----Yikes!---You have been here to long not to know that!!
Next bunch of questions???
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:52 PM.|
Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved