Shower pan install
installing 36x36 pan into 37x36 framed opening. 36 from entrance to back wall. 37 from side to side leaving 1/2 inch gap on each side. it seems that the existing dry wall above the shower side walls will not match up if pan is centered in opening. or do I push pan into corner and leave a 1 inch gap on one side wall and deal with that. ANY help would be great. First time for shower install and any info would be appreciated. thank you.
Most shower pans I have installed go to framing not drywall.
And then I would not want drywall in a shower anyways.
I would measure up 6' and cut the drywall at that hight, install the pan to framing and then fur out the other side to correct dimension and use hardibacker or durrock to replace the drywall.
I would only suggest not furring out the wall with the shower valve. Keep it more simple.
But typically the pan goes to framing and the hardibacker slides over the lip of the pan.
I have seen retro fit pans that go into a drywalled space and then has fiberglass walls that attach to the drywall and sit on pan, is probably what you are talking about.
In this case, slide it to the wall not centered, and just deal with furring out one side as needed.
1" is a pain to fur out, maybe strips of 3/4 wood and 1/4" drywall, two layers of 1/2" drywall?
Just depends on exact amount needed, maybe enough forgiveness in side panels that 1 layer of 5/8" would work.
Anyway you go will need a piece of corner bead mudded in and finished, why shove to one side and only one corner and not 2 to finish.
Bad advice Funtool---or confusing anyway-----
The pan must go tight to the framing---if the framing is to big fur it out with wood strips or sister in entire 2x4s along side the existing ones----
The backer board does not cover the flange of the pan--it stops at the top of the flange--if you cover the flange the backer will be bent because the flange is thicker than the studs---
Fill that void with thinset as you tile--If you are coating the backer board with a paint on waterproofing like Red Guard---fill the void before coating---tilers mesh on all seams---
Set the pan into a bed of masons mortar to prevent voids under the pan----Mike-----
Mike, I still luvs you :thumbup:
I do think my post may be confusing, my first thought was a shower pan and tiled walls.
After writing what I did, I realized it may be a shower kit that would be installed to drywall and added the second portion of post.
I dunno about others, I hate shower kits, they always seem to leak, or have some other issue.
Last one I installed, went to home depot and bought most expensive one they had, about $700 ... 6 months later was back for a leak and door adjustment.
Just a pain in the but and would prefer to build my own.
But about mounting the pan to studs and drywall or cement board over the flange, I stand by that.
Even a cast iron bathtub has a 1" to 1 1/2" flange to attach to framing.
Flange is about 1/8" thick, just a nailing flange to attach to the framing.
Is designed to run the wall board over it so water is directed into the tub or shower pan, if you stopped the wall board above it, would have a big gap to fill with thinset or in this case will be a fiberglass wall surround.
Either tile or fiberglass, will never see the 1/8" at the bottom.
Thank you for taking the time to help me out. I hope to tell you a success story soon. thanks again. Monte Preuitt
Thank you for your reply. I am very happy with both of your responses and so quickly. Now to go do some damage to my bathroom and my pride, Thanks again Monte Preuitt
You didn't mention furring out the walls to bring the backer over the flange without bending in your original post---that is an acceptable method if it doesn't goof up the transition from the backer to the drywall around the rest of the room.
I just use lattis strips to shim out the studs and just tack them in place with finish nails.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:38 AM.|
Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved