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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
I am trying to fix the shower at work. It is on the second floor so the plumbing is accesible through the drop ceiling downstairs. The shower has not been used in more than 25 years. I cut out all the cast iron pipes which were completely obstructed (they looked like core samples) and replaced with PVC. My problem is the shower floor still leaks around the drain. I have read up on shower pan liners and attempted to replace this one which I assumed would be lead. But when I cut out the drain itself
and remove the tile and mortar all I see is concrete. No pan liner that I can discern at all. Right under the tiles was a perforated sheet (lots of uniform sized holes) then concrete. Looking at the hole where the drain was to downstairs.Dont even see the sub floor (wood). Any thoughts? |
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#2 | |
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Tileguy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,104
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Shower PanQuote:
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#3 |
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call me E
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,144
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Shower Pan
I suggest you gut it and start over. Won't be too difficult
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#4 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
Appears the floor is entirely made of poured concrete with rebar supported by steel I-beams. There is no wood involved. That being the case, I am thinking i should remove the tiles and grout and build up from there. This is to say, lay the shower pan liner over the concrete as though it were the wood sub floor, then proceed from there? Has anyone ever encountered this before? Any suggestions?
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#5 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
Why not buy a fiberglass pan?
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#6 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
I thought of that but its an unusual shape, I didnt see one off-the-shelf that would fit and I dont think a custom pan would meet budget approval.
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#7 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
Hand packed bases coat about $150 in materials plus the tile---Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
Time to install and tile is another story.
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#8 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
Its a shower at my job. I want to fix it because my house has flooded three times in the last two years and this would be a convenient place to shower while I am "between water heaters". My company will not spend more than $200 to repair.
I was thinking I would remove the tiles, lay down an acrylic shower pan liner with a new drain then lay mortar and tile over that. Maintianing the existing "slope". Do you think this would / could work? |
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#9 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
No---This would, though--Hydroban by Latacrete----It is a paint on rubber waterproofing used for fountains,pools and showers.
I've used it and found it easy to apply ---you can tile right over it.
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 223
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Shower Pan
oh'mike - Does this perform a similar function as red guard ? (and it is better?).
Thanks! |
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#11 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
So, rip up the tiles and mortar. lay down some concrete to fill in the gap left by removing the cast iron drain pipe, then spread some of this watertight stuff, then mortar and tile over that? Sound like a plan?
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#12 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
Same idea as red guard----but a thicker and more elastic product.
I've used both and would trust the Hydroban on a pan---but not the Redguard--
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#13 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
Pretty much---you need to get a Schluter drain --or a regular clamp type drain and a disk of flexible membrane ---Noble makes a disk for this purpose---
You must be able to seal the drain to the concrete pan with the hydroban.
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#14 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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Shower Pan
These are the three-part drains they sell in Home Depot, right?
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#15 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 16,762
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Shower Pan
Correct---You need to clamp a disk of flexible membrane into the drain so that you can get a good seal on the pan/drain connection.
Go to the Latacrete site for instructions. I'm headed for work---I;ll check back this evening---Mike----
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