Shower Drain W/O P Trap Help!!!

pwgsx · 10-19-2012, 02:44 PM

I guess so, mine had sand under the foundation so I just reused that and added some more to it.

**oh'mike** · 10-19-2012, 07:18 PM

I always use PVC---easiest to mate up with the PVC drain set----

Pack the pipe in gravel---you will have plenty from digging around the old pipe--

Replace the concrete with your deck mud as you form the pan--

This gives you one more chance to adjust the drain set for a level cover---

Make sure that pipe is plumb----crooked will make the drain out of whack to your tile.

Use a square drain cover--

A Latacrete or Schluter drain will not require the 'divot' or the filling---but will cost $125 instead of the $36 that a membrane drain with a square cover will set you back---

**oh'mike** · 10-19-2012, 07:22 PM

And --yes---I was poking at you for trying to avoid the P-trap job---You would have ended up doing it any way after you figured out that no drain cover set would mate up with the old pipe---

And yes---a hand maul will break that out---I own a jack hammer---so---------------

brockmiera · 10-20-2012, 12:08 AM

So should I break out all the concrete in the pan or just what I need to reach the trap? also do I use the glue on fittings or screw on fittings?

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**oh'mike** · 10-20-2012, 07:12 AM

Only open the area that you need in order to replace the drain---

Glue up fittings--except the rubber boot--

Use Sackcrete to replace the concrete if the hole is large---block out the drain area so that the drain pipe is still able to be wiggled--I usually leave an opening around the pipe about 7 inches square---then pack that as I build the pan

brockmiera · 11-16-2012, 12:49 PM

So my girlfriend thinks that WE might want a tub down there instead of a large shower. If I were to plumb it for a tub would I have to then pour a pad level with the rest of the basement in order to support the tub?