shortening bathtub drain tail pipe
i have a brass Moen lever drain for my bath tub. the tail pipe below the T is about 2-1/4" long. i understand the normal procedure is to connect it to a PVC P-trap with an adapter as is, however, i am dealing in some tight spaces sharing other infrastructure and i either have to move that other piping somewhere (P.I.A.) or cut the drain tail pipe as short as possible and solder a 1-1/2" DWV copper elbow to it with another copper extension coming out (or maybe even the cut off brass coming out, then a Fernco coupling to some PVC pipe going into a P-trap.
i was wondering if this is doable and recommended. my main concern is whether that may affect the stopper functionality.
please see the attached illustration.
For my bathtub, I got a plastic (ABS) drain and overflow. And these have nice metal on the bathtub side. And for the bathtub drain, there is no lever, rather a screw on cap which you press on with your foot to close the drain or press again to open the drain. Or you can unscrew it easily if mostly taking showers and it drains faster.
Also the for the "T" where the bathtub drain meets the bathtub vent, I installed a 2 1/2 inch "T" with two reducer bushings to 1 1/2 for the bathtub drain and vent connections. Then the drain and trap from there is all 2 1/2 inch.
Needless to say, my bathtub drains quite fast!
So for your situation, I'm thinking that sudden 1 1/2" 90 degree bend might restrict the drain water flowing out. Maybe doing as I did by going to a larger T and then 90 would keep the water flowing nicely?
And if worried about the lever, going to the type of drain where you press on it with your foot would solve that. And plastic would easily allow you to "re-engineer" the drain pipe sizes.
I don't know about you, but it has always seemed to me like bathtubs drain too slowly. Yet they keep doing things the same way... (But not at my house!)
The drain stopper I got looks like the following...
Don't frustrate yourself - the traditional way of plumbing a tub is standard and the usual but NOT your only option as far as the layout of your pipes go. . . you don't have to do that if it won't work out for you.
I would do something like this:
Two elbows and a T - exiting in the opposite direction. . . something like that. Clearing the obstacle and saving you time and likely money.
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