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Old 07-23-2008, 09:54 AM   #1
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Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement


Hey there,

I'm putting in a bathroom in my basement...toilet, shower, and sink. There is going to be about a 3 foot rise up to the the current sewer line. I know I need a sewage ejection pump... but there is so many to chose from. Do I need a complete "sewage ejector system" like this one http://www.buypumpsdirect.com/?cf=st...oduct&pid=1440 , or do i need just a sewage ejector pump like this one http://www.buypumpsdirect.com/?cf=store/product&pid=713 ?

also, should i run my plumbing a foot or so higher than the sewer line and then elbow it down (figure1), or run it straight to the sewer line(figure2)?, refer to the attached figures as a reference.

Thanks for your help,
Kamil
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Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement-figure1.jpg   Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement-figure2.jpg  

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Old 07-24-2008, 12:37 AM   #2
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Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement


Since you have a toilet, you will definitely need one with a grinder in it, but i'm not really saavy on how many horses you need and all that jazz. You probably don't need a lot of horsepower if you're not going terribly far with it, however.

In reference to your plumbing TO the gravity drain.... It really doesn't matter too much (although figure 1 looks like it would be a couple of more fittings), since it's going to be a pressure line, but really wouldn't be a bad idea to run it on grade as much as possible. That way, you will ensure that you have the least amount of effluent in the pressure line in case you ever have to work on that check valve. REMEMBER !!! : Tank ---> Swing Check ----> Ball valve.

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Old 07-24-2008, 09:37 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Since you have a toilet, you will definitely need one with a grinder in it, but i'm not really saavy on how many horses you need and all that jazz. You probably don't need a lot of horsepower if you're not going terribly far with it, however.

In reference to your plumbing TO the gravity drain.... It really doesn't matter too much (although figure 1 looks like it would be a couple of more fittings), since it's going to be a pressure line, but really wouldn't be a bad idea to run it on grade as much as possible. That way, you will ensure that you have the least amount of effluent in the pressure line in case you ever have to work on that check valve. REMEMBER !!! : Tank ---> Swing Check ----> Ball valve.

Hmm, thanks for your response. I assumed a grinder is required for something less than a 2" drain. The pumps say they are able to handle up to 2" solids... and to tell you the truth, i dont think im going to be having any thing bigger than a 2" solid.

Also, do i need to get the whole system, with a "tank enclosed pump" or just the pump itself?

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Old 07-24-2008, 10:09 AM   #4
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Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement


Do you already have a tank?
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:11 AM   #5
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Do you already have a tank?
no tank, no pump, nothing yet. Just trying to figure out exactly what I have to buy before i start working.
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:13 AM   #6
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well then i would assume that you need the whole system. It aint gonna work without a tank.

I personally really would get a grinder.
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Old 07-25-2008, 11:54 AM   #7
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Sewage ejector -- Bathroom in Basement


If you don't have a tank, sometimes called a pump can, you will need to install one. You don't necessarily need a self contained unit, it's OK to but a can separately and install the pump after you get everything patched back. If you get a pump that is listed as a sewage ejection pump from a reputable dealer, it will be a grinder pump.

Alan is right about the check valve and gate valve, it is very important. There are several different types made for this application. If you go to a plumbing supply dealer they will know what you need.

Last of all, it is best (and many codes require it) for the pump discharge line to connect with the gravity waste line from at least above the centerline of the waste line. I always use a wye and connect the discharge line from the top.

It's not a bad idea to get a high water alarm. This is just a separate float which is connected to an alarm panel so if the pump fails it will alert you before it overflows.
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Old 07-26-2008, 10:22 AM   #8
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Abolutely on the alarm!!!!!

Pumps can range in price. ITT Gould is THE only way to go. Mine lasted 17 years. Think about it 17 years submerged in .
I came home to a tank that was BOILING because the motor was shot to the point it could not turn but just sat there making heat! No circuit protection, and the breaker was not too concerned being there was no fault .. just a load (No punn). Yeah ugly and I was

Anyways the pump itself was 1300 bucks. but what really urked me is the previous hacker ... err I mean Homeowner Buried the tank and pump assy under a 3/4 inch subfloor with the vanity over it. .. .. NO ACCESS. Do me a favor and make an access panel big to get to the TANK OUT if you ever need to.

Also keep in mind that you are also making an easy way for water to gain access to your basement. Not trying to scare you but if you are going to break out the concrete for and EJ system I would (And THANK GOD I DID) install a sump.

After the whole pump fiasco I got to thinking that "Gee if the water table ever gets high enough ..." I called Basement systems as I by now had switched jobs at the moment and really had a sense of urgency but NO TIME to get it done and have had them on jobs before and really liked their systems.

Thank god I did as I still had the subfloor up when we had the Northeast flooding allmost two septembers ago. I WATCHED the water rushing in under the slab and make a tiny river to the sump. That thing HAD to pump out 10,000 gallons EASILY as it would trip and run every 5 minutes from the time it started raining to 3 days after.

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