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Septic Tank Vent Pipe

157K views 32 replies 18 participants last post by  BIG Johnson 
#1 ·
We just recently bought a new home and we are new to septic tanks.
We currently have a 46"H PVC pipe in the middle of our yard (looks like a candy cane).
We are told (not sure)that this is the vent pipe for the leaching field of the septic system.

We would like to minimize the appearance of this pipe. We do not want to compromise the septic system in doing so.

Can this pipe be cut down to 23" or lower? Can we cut this down and extended it to the property edge?

We are just looking for something to do with this, as it is a real eye sore..

Thanks,
 
#5 ·
Our home has been on a septic system for more than 32 years and I have been a rural real estate broker for more than 21 years.
I have never seen a septic tank or drain field "vented" like that. I've heard that those are for "inspections", which sounds like hogwash to me. A septic system (or sewer system hookup for that matter) is vented through the code-required drain-waste-vent system of a house (out through the roof), and no vent is required elsewhere.
Check with your Health Department for the purpose or legal requirment if any for this "vent" (I highly doubt that it is required).
If it isn't, dig down below ground level, cut and cap it off and forget about it.
Good luck!
Mike
 
#6 ·
I'm no septic expert, but I agree here. I've actually SEEN "vents" inside of septic tanks where they use a sanitary tee instead of a 1/4 bend to dump down into the tank. As previously stated, i'm not sure what use that is, since the house in theory should be properly vented, and therefore, the tank shouldn't need it's own vent.


Now, if it's a sewer basin with a pump....... that's a different story.
 
#7 ·
I have seen pipes on the tank itself and it is used for pumping the tank. My mother has one and broke the cover with the lawn mower. After a major rain storm, the tank filled and had to be pumped.

Hers is only about 8"above the ground.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I have seen pipes on the tank itself and it is used for pumping the tank. My mother has one and broke the cover with the lawn mower. After a major rain storm, the tank filled and had to be pumped.

Hers is only about 8"above the ground.
Don't look now but pumping a septic tank a second time on short notice (sludge and scum already removed recently) is a waste of money.

If the liquid level does not drop back down to the normal 85 to 90% full mark then there is a problem further on, in the leach field.

For the dose tank the 85% level would be where the pump kicks on. Sometimes it is lower. Typically the lower, pump off, level is set far enough down so the amount of water ejected fills the leach lines but none comes out the vent pipe.

Now you might have had to pump the yard so rain water does not pour into the septic tank through the broken vent pipe.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I've been told by septic system people that those T's inside the septic tank on the house discharge main drain pipe and on the septic tank outflow pipe to the distribution box (most important) are on those lines simply to prevent floating sludge, grease and other solids from entering and clogging the house discharge and more importantly, the drain field.
The T's allow the tank liquid to rise into and flow out of the tank, trapping the floating solids inside the tank to be pumped out later with the sludge that has sunken to the bottom. (Mine only has a T on the discharge side.)
NC State University has done extensive research on septic systems over the years, and two of the most important things that I've read from all of these studies are (A) the only routine maintenance septic systems need is that the tanks should be pumped out at least every five years and (B) all of those septic system "additives" are worthless and a waste of money.
On the first note, I have our tank pumped in every year that ends in a five or a zero ("idiot proofing" for me...LOL). On the latter note, normal usage simply adds all of the bacteria needed for a septic system to function properly. All of that "additive" stuff is just a rip-off based on NCSU research (my description, not theirs).
Also. since we have a lot of shrubbery and trees planted near and in some cases, over our drain field, I flush a cup or two of copper sulphate crystals down about three times a year just to keep the roots knocked back.
Mike
 
#9 ·
You didn't say what the diameter of the pipe was, but in my area it was pretty common at one time to see a vent on the line going into the tank. They normally had a mushroom cap on them. The idea was to allow the air in the line to escape ahead of any moving liquid coming down the pipe. Clean outs are more common and have a plug in them. They are required by code in some places. What I would do is to temporarily seal the pipe with some plastic and duct tape. Check to see that everything flushes and drains properly. If all is well, then cut the pipe down to ground level and install a female coupling and a plug. Cut it so that you can mow over it. Make a note where it is for the future. If you ever start having problems, you can always remove the plug and put a vent cap back on it. I cut the clean outs on mine below ground level so I could mow over them, but took a picture first so I would know where to look for them if I ever had an issue.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the responses.

I will try and contact the local Department Public Health (MA)on information regarding this vent?

I am not sure where the vent actually sits, but it appears it is at the end of my leach field??..i could be wrong. we do have a vent that sits on the top of our roof as well. As you can tell, this is my first home with a septic system.

Dave
 
#12 ·
I think that I've read that vertical pipes located at the end of drain fields are there to observe if the end of the field is getting "wet" and therefore fully functioning. Don't know. Could be wrong. Your Health Dept. should be able to tell you.
I would like to know what they say the purpose is. Thanks.
Mike
 
#14 ·
Update!

I am still waiting for the DPH to give me a call back. However, I did speak with the builder of the home.
He indicated that it is used for "inspecting the system" and it could be cut off...

I a little miffed, because it is not capped (candy cane connector) and there are several other houses in this new development (different builders) and I see the same candy cane vents in some of the yards....

Has anyone heard of this type of pipe to inspect the system? And if we do cut it down, can it be capped? wouldn't 2 vents be better than one???

sorry for my ignorance.

Dave
 
#27 ·
I had a septic system installed last summer. There are five, 4-inch diameter pipes sticking out of the ground - one at the end of each lateral and one by the distribution box. They don't look like candy canes; they are straight and have the exposed end taped over. The installer told me they are inspection points and are a recent new code requirement. Off the record, he said they are useless and could be removed if I wanted to.
 
#17 ·
Update 2!!

I have talked to our septic builder, and he says that it is a vent and by code cannot be cut any lower (3' from under the elbow) due to snow, etc...? Has anyone ever seen this?

The DPH has yet to call me back with any answers...But I am assuming they will say the same thing. The septic builder is certified (I have checked).

Thank you to everyone for responding.

Dave
 
#19 ·
In my neighborhood, there are two septic systems with the inverted j-tube near the drain fields--one of those is mine. I've been told by the other home owner that since our two properties are on more or less level ground, our septic isn't gravity fed but "pump-fed". This echoes somewhat what the home inspector told us when we purchased the house, although no details emerged in the homeowner's guide that we received. The 3 drain fields (visible in dryer weather as brighter green longitudinal areas of grass) seem to originate near the inverted tube. My thought was to vent gas ahead of liquid as it moves into the fields from the tank.

One of these days I'll have to ask a plumber or the guy that drains the septic yearly how all this works. We've got 4 cleanouts starting a foot or so next to the house, another 50 feet out, third near the two cement lids over the tanks, and a 4th between the tanks. Next to our fuse boxes in the basement is a Gould pump monitoring system. It's not clear if this pump actually pumps raw material leaving the house since it's apparently not gravity fed, or if it pumps across the two tanks. It went off the last time during the septic's pump out, but stayed quiet on reset.

If anyone in the know can shed light on 1) why two tanks, 2) the real purpose of the pump and 3) and why 4 cleanouts are necessary I'd appreciate it.

Thanks. Here's some photos to help:

1. View from 2nd cleanout to tanks


2. Closeup of tanks


3. Gould pump monitor in basement


John
 
#33 ·
In my neighborhood, there are two septic systems with the inverted j-tube near the drain fields--one of those is mine. I've been told by the other home owner that since our two properties are on more or less level ground, our septic isn't gravity fed but "pump-fed". This echoes somewhat what the home inspector told us when we purchased the house, although no details emerged in the homeowner's guide that we received. The 3 drain fields (visible in dryer weather as brighter green longitudinal areas of grass) seem to originate near the inverted tube. My thought was to vent gas ahead of liquid as it moves into the fields from the tank.

One of these days I'll have to ask a plumber or the guy that drains the septic yearly how all this works. We've got 4 cleanouts starting a foot or so next to the house, another 50 feet out, third near the two cement lids over the tanks, and a 4th between the tanks. Next to our fuse boxes in the basement is a Gould pump monitoring system. It's not clear if this pump actually pumps raw material leaving the house since it's apparently not gravity fed, or if it pumps across the two tanks. It went off the last time during the septic's pump out, but stayed quiet on reset.

If anyone in the know can shed light on 1) why two tanks, 2) the real purpose of the pump and 3) and why 4 cleanouts are necessary I'd appreciate it.


John
Basically you need to have a minimum of 4' of sand under your drain field to filter the water before it is impeded either by clay or something or hit the water table. A sanitarian will look for mottling of the soil to determine how high the water table gets. What likely happened to yours and your neighbors house is they only found sand in those areas and those areas were not low enough to allow water to drain from your septic tank via gravity.

A common practice in my area is to build what they call a "mound system". Be thankful you don't have one of those. You think a PVC candy cane is ugly?

BTW. I've never seen the candy cane but I'm sure once my local sanitarian learns about them he'll be requiring it. I've heard of mound systems in my area requiring 1,000 yards of clean and sifted sand trucked in.
 
#20 · (Edited)
My system has a 1000 gallon tank then a 4" pipe into a second 1000 gallon tank, then a 3" pipe into a 500 gallon "dose" tank which has a pump installed. as effluent reaches the first tank, the solids settle out and the water travels to the second tank, where even more solids settle out. The remaining liquid travels to the dose tank. When the water level gets high enough, a float switch starts the pump which pushes the liquid into the drain field. There are clean outs between all of the tanks and where the 4" line leaves the house. There are also clean outs at the ends of the laterals in the drain field. There are no vents in any of these lines, but you may be required to have one for some local code. I have cut the clean outs down to ground level to mow over them. Because of soil conditions in my area, I was required to put in a pressure dosing system, rather than a traditional gravity system. Pumping the tanks can cause some water to slosh around, tripping the tank/pump alarm. It looks and sounds like you have a very similar system. You likely have a second pump to move the effluent to the tanks if there isn't enough slope for gravity to do the job. Somebody should have told them that septic tank lids should be round so they can't fall in the tank. :yes:
 
#21 ·
The "candy cane" is a critical part of your septic system. It allows air to get into the leach field. The reason it is shaped like a candy cane is to allow air into the leach field and keep rain, snow, and small animals out. The height of the vent can vary...it may be higher if you are in an area of heavy snow.
 
#22 ·
The "candy cane" is a critical part of your septic system. It allows air to get into the leach field. The reason it is shaped like a candy cane is to allow air into the leach field and keep rain, snow, and small animals out. The height of the vent can vary...it may be higher if you are in an area of heavy snow.
I'm curious then why only two houses in a very large neighborhood have the candy cane. What made these two leach fields different from everyone else. The only common thread I see are that our two yards (about 1.3 acres) are probably the flattest and most level, and other homes tend to be on hills with leach fields "downstream". Could this be a factor?

Thanks--John
 
#23 ·
In Massachusetts, a leach field/bed must be vented if it is 3' below the finish grade or if any part of the field/bed is under a driveway, parking lot or other impervious material, or pump systems. Some new systems (Presby for example), require high and low vents.
For years the "intake" of air for a system came mostly through the soil covering the system. Now, the consensus seems to be a vent for intake helps the bacteria in the system thrive, to keep the system working more efficiently.
 
#25 ·
These vents are quite common in MA where I also live. I have seen some people cut them down, but I don't think they are supposed to. Our leaching pipes are up on a hill b/c our septic system is actually raised. I have driven around and looked a ton of homes trying to figure out what to do with them. The best thing I have seen is painting them green to somewhat camoflauge them. Then I have seen some people put rocks around them and a little flower bed or so to make them a little more asthetically pleasing.
 
#28 ·
This is what I have read, can anyone verify?

The vent pipe at the end of the drain field is for: 1) to check to see if the field is "wet", but the article I read never said if you want it to be wet, or when it should or should not be. 2) It helps to aerate the drain field, which promotes bacterial growth thus ensuring proper percolation. (which seems to emply you do not want it to be "wet")
 
#29 ·
septic vent

These vents are more and more common now. They are infact used to let gases out and fresh air in to promote bacteria growth to help break things down in the leaching field. They are most commonly found on pump systems where the fluids are rapidly forced into the field and in return need to relieve the air just as quickly as the fluids are brought in. The best product I have seen to take care of this ugly vent is the Dirty Bird. It is a cool product that is easily installed after cutting the turn down off the pipe and it slides over the existing pipe to create a pedistal with a bird bath top. This product does what the candy cane does with the venting under the top and has a charcoal filter to control the odors. Really cool and looks like a stone bird bath.
We used these in mass when my father was installing systems. I think it came out around 2002. Check out the website www.thedirtybird.com really cool and super easy to install, no glue, definetly worth it!
 
#30 ·
septic tank vent

Septic tanks are all about Bacteria. Bacteria needs air to thrive.
Both the tank and the leach field should be vented.
Chemicals (laundry soap, bleach, drain cleaners) are bacteria killers.
It is getting more and more common for people to put in a simple seperate drain system from their washing machine because of this. The neat thing is plants thrive on the nitrates in the laundry soap, so it is a double win.
Here is a trick I discovered about 7 years ago that really works well.
mix equal parts of: Yeast, Brown sugar and Baking soda and flush it down a toilet once every 3 or 4 months. the bacteria in the yeast feeds on the brown sugar and the baking soda gives it a boost of oxygen to really promote the growth of the bacteria. I have tried those expensive liquid bacteria treatments and this works better and at a very small fraction of the cost.
 
#31 ·
The pipe is candy cane shaped so it is likely a vent and not an inspection/clean out tube. I just happened to click on a drain field diagram after searching "septic tank vents" on google that includes a vent at the end of the field, so yes it is a common or recommended vent, but is it actually necessary? probably not..
 
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