Sealing drain to cast iron receptor

Lockeset

Lot's of questions guys, mostly just reassurance for a first time job.

1) I will be installing a Kohler cast iron receptor soon, I bought a Kohler drain for it. The instructions for the drain merely say to caulk it to the receptor, I was wondering what the best way to do this is. Just general caulk? Silicon? Plumber's putty like a sink drain?

2) It doesn't say how tight to torque the drain to the tub. I know this is more of a "by the feel of it" type of thing, but I just want to make sure that I do it the best way possible.

3) My plan was to leave the last piece of 2" PVC after the trap out (since it might be in the way). I was planning on wrestling the 200lb. receptor into place and then after it's set I could reach down thru the drain and glue the 2" PVC upright into place. Does that sound like a good idea?

4) Finally, is there any type of sealants that should be used in conjunction with that thick rubber gasket that needs to be pushed down between the PVC and the drain? It just doesn't seem like a connection that will hold up for decades. I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but I was wondering if anyone added something to ensure it stays sealed.

Thanks for the help!

TheEplumber

1. I use a good quality plumbing silicone. Clean up extra with denatured alcohol

2. Tighten it till the nut won't turn anymore. Just like a basket strainer. If its cast iron you won't hurt the drain outlet.

3 i have done this just as you describe. worked ok but it was a short taipiece (about 8") and it was abs which I think glues together easier then pvc so I'd have some concerns. Still prolly easier then lifting over the pipe. If your ptrap is below slab it will help if it is on firm soil. Take careful measurements when laying out the trap.

4. Wet the gasket with water before pushing it over the pipe. This helps it slide into place. You may need to pound the gasket into final position. A straight vertical drain pipe helps (see #3) You can leave the pipe a little long and cut off the excess after setting the gasket by using an inside cutter.

Be sure you don't pry under the tub/sink apron. It will chip the finish. (trust me on this) Try not to drag it on a rough surface either this will also chip it Best if you have helper for this one. good luck

Lockeset

Great, thanks for the help!

Jim F

Can I ask what the cast iron receptor cost and where you found it. They are quite pricey on the Kohler site, but maybe cheaper elsewhere.

Lockeset

I bought a 60X30" tub replacement style receptor. I got it for $450 thru a local supply house. Home Depot has them on their website for a bit more.

IMO, the receptor is a lot less than the total labor and material of tiling the shower floor. Cast iron means it will look great forever (unlike acrylic). I have it sitting in my living room right now, it's a thing of beauty.

Jim F

That's not bad. They go for more than that on the Kohler website. I may be looking into something like that for my next bathroom renovation but maybe not matching the tub dimensions.

Lockeset

I just used the one at my parents house, it's a 36" X 48" and it's great. These receptors don't require any bedding, just set them and use metal plates under the feet where necessary to shim it so it's level. It's as solid as a rock.

Jim F

I have their cast iron tubs in both my bathrooms now. The older one upstairs was here when we moved in and the newer one is in my bathroom that i am renovating Jim's downstairs bathroom project . The wife thinks she wants a shower upstairs. Cast iron is definitely the way to go.