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Old 01-09-2012, 11:41 AM   #1
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Running plumbing for utility sink


Hi all, first time poster.

I bought a utility sink to install in my basement. The problem is, the basement isn't plumbed for it. So, I need to tap into the drain and water supply in order to install it. Look at the picture "drain.jpg". This is a drain pipe that the washer stand pipe feeds into, which is in a great location to install the sink. The washer stand pipe feeds into that drain via the tee that goes off to the right. What I was thinking was to cut just above that tee and install another tee for the sink drain.

My second question is regarding cutting into the existing water supply. See picture "water.jpg", which shows the pipes that lead to the washer hot/cold. What I was thinking was to put tees into each one of those and use that to feed the sink. My only concern is having a tee like that on a vertical pipe; doesn't seem like water would flow off through the tee because of gravity.

Any thoughts?
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:54 AM   #2
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Running plumbing for utility sink


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Hi all, first time poster.

I bought a utility sink to install in my basement. The problem is, the basement isn't plumbed for it. So, I need to tap into the drain and water supply in order to install it. Look at the picture "drain.jpg". This is a drain pipe that the washer stand pipe feeds into, which is in a great location to install the sink. The washer stand pipe feeds into that drain via the tee that goes off to the right. What I was thinking was to cut just above that tee and install another tee for the sink drain.

My second question is regarding cutting into the existing water supply. See picture "water.jpg", which shows the pipes that lead to the washer hot/cold. What I was thinking was to put tees into each one of those and use that to feed the sink. My only concern is having a tee like that on a vertical pipe; doesn't seem like water would flow off through the tee because of gravity.

Any thoughts?
gravity has nothing to do with water flo in those pipe's. Looks like cpvc pipe so get the right fitting's. pvc fittings will not fit cpvc pipe. What you may find that when the washer drain's it may flo back into the sink?? If it were me i would put it as close to the drain next to the floor. than may keep water from flowing in the sink of course it will drain tho

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Old 01-09-2012, 12:11 PM   #3
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Running plumbing for utility sink


For the water it's cake.
Cut the lines set some tees and valves; extend that to the tub faucet.
Reverse the order of that if inclined.

For the drain... it's gonna be tight.
The tub drain trap needs to be higher than there (at no less than 1/8" per foot; 1/4 is better)
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:36 PM   #4
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Running plumbing for utility sink


Thanks guys. I can shim the tub with cinder blocks or 2x4's to get extra height so that there is a downslope between the trap outlet and the drain.

I guess my main concern was whether or not tapping into the drain like that was kosher.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #5
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I can shim the tub with cinder blocks or 2x4's to get extra height...
Er, no... or at least not unless there is NO OTHER option.

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...my main concern was whether or not tapping into the drain...
...when done properly is no problem at all.
The question is HOW to do that.

The current pipe serving the washer drain riser might be at an adequate
height to have the tub trap drain into.

FWIW... The last guy who worked there did you no favors.

Last edited by TarheelTerp; 01-09-2012 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:05 PM   #6
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Alright, so I decided to just go for it and cut into the drain line to install a tee. See attached picture. I dry fitted in the sink just to test it, and it isn't draining for crap. Extremely slow, and doing the whole "glub glub glub" think, like it isn't vented. I assumed that drain line was vented..it is a newer home. Or is it because that there isn't enough height between the trap and the new tee?
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:06 PM   #7
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Running plumbing for utility sink


I should also say that the current setup is shown in this drawing. The drain for the tub is above the tee that I cut into the drain pipe.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:27 PM   #8
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Never mind, I got it. There was this metal screen that you could put in the drain to catch things; for some reason, the thing doesn't drain well with it at all. Pulling that thing out, it drains like a champ.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #9
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Alright, so I decided to just go for it and cut into the drain line to install a tee. See attached picture. I dry fitted in the sink just to test it, and it isn't draining for crap. Extremely slow, and doing the whole "glub glub glub" think, like it isn't vented. I assumed that drain line was vented..it is a newer home. Or is it because that there isn't enough height between the trap and the new tee?
That sink should not be tied in with that washer drain,in most areas a washer needs to run independently on its own 2" pipe to a 3" drain .
Even when it hits the 3" there should be a minimum of 5' of pipe between the 2" and next drain opening
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:52 PM   #10
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That sink should not be tied in with that washer drain,in most areas a washer needs to run independently on its own 2" pipe to a 3" drain .
Even when it hits the 3" there should be a minimum of 5' of pipe between the 2" and next drain opening
Assuming that the drain lines, including the wet vent, is 2" it's legal where I plumb. Done all the time. Now, commercial would be a different story..
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:55 PM   #11
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Yeah that would get red tagged immediately if not sooner in these parts
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:07 AM   #12
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As Plummen mentions, the connection for that utility sink & washer needs greater separation. Here's a pic from my provincial authority showing the suggested separation for what are called suds pressure zones;



Their reasoning is that some 'high sudsing detergents' can interfere with venting & draining therefore no connections should be made in the grayed areas.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:18 AM   #13
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As Plummen mentions, the connection for that utility sink & washer needs greater separation. Here's a pic from my provincial authority showing the suggested separation for what are called suds pressure zones;



Their reasoning is that some 'high sudsing detergents' can interfere with venting & draining therefore no connections should be made in the grayed areas.
Just goes to show how codes vary. I don't recall the exact wording, but the UPC is not quite that strict in regards to suds. In my states code, residential work is excluded when it comes to suds relief though. But hey, we're behind the times here anyways
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:42 AM   #14
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Can't ever say that in single dwelling residential I'd ever run into the suds zone problem, but then again I'd never have piped it that close either.
Love the differences from town to town, notebooks for each of them. 15 at last count, some with pages & pages of notes & some with just a few lines.
Up where I live there's still some houses that dump their sewage directly into the lake. And people wonder why I refuse to swim, boat, fish, etc.. in there.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:58 AM   #15
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Can't ever say that in single dwelling residential I'd ever run into the suds zone problem, but then again I'd never have piped it that close either.
Love the differences from town to town, notebooks for each of them. 15 at last count, some with pages & pages of notes & some with just a few lines.
Up where I live there's still some houses that dump their sewage directly into the lake. And people wonder why I refuse to swim, boat, fish, etc.. in there.
TBH, I haven't done too many commercial applications with laundry drains. But I remember doing a 5 story design-build condo, had 4 journeymen standing around arguing about suds relief Same went for island loop vents. Most of us did plan and spec work which is pretty much laid out for you so we forgot the fine points of the code. Nothing like residential rough in as a refresher though.
I have about 5 code variations I work with in my area. I keep all the inspectors #'s close by.

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