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Replacing Washing Machine Water Shutoff Valve

39K views 11 replies 11 participants last post by  jmon 
#1 ·
We just moved in to a "New to Us" home and have little to no experience with home projects (and even fewer tools). With that being said, I can follow instructions as well as the next guy, and am handy enough to figure things out.

Our washing machine water shutoff valve is drippping when turned on. There is also low water pressure through the tube to the washing machine. While I know there are "bandaids" to this problem, I would like to replace both water valves, as well as the drip catch surround (I'm pretty sure that is NOT a technical term).

Unfortunately, since I have no experience, I am struggling with where to start. I would love some detailed instructions (and will most likely have lots of follow up questions). I am also wondering whether I need to remove a portion of the drywall below the valves, in order to inspect the pipes (not that I even know what I'm looking for).

I have done a fair share of research on the internet and understand the general steps, but am still lacking confidence. I have posted pictures, but please excuse the lighting (it is very poor in the laundry room).

I have been lurking on this site for months in anticipation of having my own project. Let the fun begin...
 

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#2 ·
Open up the wall below the washer box to see what kind of pipe and connections you are dealing with. Cut straight down about 12" on each side of the box. Use a drywall saw (under $10) of a utility knife. Don't use a power saw or you may have more repairs that you want. Post a picture.
 
#3 ·
Does this leak when the water is turned ON? IF SO: See the hex shaped thingy just under the valve handle? This is the "bonnet nut" and within this bonnet nut is some packing material which sometimes dries out if the valves sit too long when shut OFF. Open the valve(s) all the way open, then back off 1/2 turn. Use a wrench to tighten on the bonnet nut maybe one hex at the time, 1/6 turn. Move the valve handle back and forth just a bit to see if the leak stops. Do this more, but not more than one complete turn. IF this is where the leak is, and this does not stop the leak, you can replace the packing withing the bonnet nut also. The advice about opening the wall is good to find out what type of pipes you have, copper, galvanized, PEX, or what. You may have to change out one or both bibb cocks in the long run.
 
#4 ·
As always, the DIY Chatroom came to the rescue.

Thurman...thanks for putting it in Laymen's terms. We got the leak stopped and everything is running smooth. You were correct. The house sat empty for 8 months before we bought it, so it seems the packing material had dried out.

Rjniles...thanks for the quick reply as well as the advice.

While I initially thought I would just replace both valves, I'm feeling pretty confident in the "band-aid" solution. Unless anyone sees any reason to replace the outdated valves...I can check this project off as successful. 1 down...too many to go.
 
#12 · (Edited)
This is an old thread from August 2011. However, old threads can still be useful and may help others.

Some can be rebuilt. You would have to shut off water and take it all apart to rebuild it. Pita. Or just replace it with a new one and be done with it. About 30 dollars or so at a big box store. At the same time replace your hoses with new braided ones if they haven't been changed in past 5 years.
 
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