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jayp 06-10-2008 06:00 PM

Replacing a toilet flange
I have a cast iron toilet drain and the flange is a combination of cracked and disgusting so while I'm redoing my floors I figured I'd replace it. Oateys has two PVC flanges with neoprene looking gaskets that sit inside the 4" pipe and seal it off. One of them has bolts that you tighten and it expands the gasket to fit while the other one screws into place and the tighter you screw, the tighter the seal. Anyone ever use these and which is better? They both sit inside the pipe.

My other question is since I probably need to get rid of the existing flange, what's the best way to do that?

Termite 06-10-2008 09:46 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here's how I handled mine...

My cast iron had a lead covered brass pipe that protrudes up to the floor flange. The lead created a seal. I used a torch to melt the lead off, then cut the brass flange down so it protruded only a couple inches from the cast iron hub. Then I installed a Fernco 3x4" bushing and a section of 3" PVC to transition into a PVC floor flange. Here's pics....

Termite 06-10-2008 09:47 PM

You can see the lead up into the flange in the top pic. The bottom pic is the way it looked before I cut into it.

Sorry, I don't have a pic of the finished product yet.

jayp 06-11-2008 05:54 AM

I'd thought about that but mine is cast iron all the way up and that means it'll be a major pain in the @#$ to cut. I'll have to look closely at it and see if there's a lead seam anywhere.

mikey48 06-11-2008 09:00 AM

If you have room a sawsall will cut it with with a little effort.

jayp 06-11-2008 09:43 AM

I may
I might be able to but I need to find a good blade. I used this Milwaukee blade for metal cutting when I was replacing my cast iron tub p-trap and the teeth flattened in about 60 seconds flat. I had to just cut it the old fashioned way with a hacksaw. I don't even want to try to cut a 4" cast iron drain by hand. The thought of it makes my arm hurt.

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