Replacing Toilet Flange in 1/2 Bath

Mark Potter

Cement board on the floor??.. Not so much doable?.. but if you want a cement base then just do a wet bed.

H|P Capital

Bud Cline

I will never understand why hot shots always resist doing things by the book. I'll never understand it.

Mark Potter

I'm not trying to piss any one off here with my opinions cuz there not in the code of ethics tile hand book.
This is a DIY forum and this person wants to do it DIY then that's the best way to go.
Cement board is for shower tile just a improved durock for bigger tile.
Was there cement board under vinyl that was taking up? No whats under there plywood.
I'm not a hot shot
This isn't try outs for HGTV show
Just because every one uses it now you have to "no" options people options open minded.

oh'mike

You are walking this member down a dark and scary road Mark.

There is a 'code book' --the TCNA manual---It is used by insurance companies to void warranties when a tile setter does something known to fail---

It is used by setters to see what will work without worry --

Also used by Manufacturers to spec products.

New materials are introduced and tested--The cost of failure with tile work is so high that always suggesting methods that are tested and proven is the way to counsel a poster here.

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Mark Potter

I got nothing but respect for you Mike
I'm just saying it has worked never went bad for me and alot of other people who have used this method.
I posted specs on using the hardiback for flooring before thinking posting my own thoughts and ways it can be done.
Sorry for ruffling some feathers some times you just have to.

oh'mike

My feathers aren't ruffled----I do try to give the best advice---members have set me right many times when I missed the mark with my ideas----

We do that here----one nice thing about this site --we can correct each other without it being personal--The bottom line is that a member can come here and trust the advice given---

So we 'debate' a lot----Arguing is not tolerated ---but a good debate over the best method is educational and (sometimes) fun.---Mike---

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Mark Potter

Thanks Mike

sullijos

Thanks for the helpful feedback thus far. Regarding the toilet flange, would you all recommend somehow cutting it off the drain pipe if it's bonded to it? When you cut the hardibacker, should it be cut to fit around the flange, or should the flange eventually sit on top both the board and tile?

TheEplumber

assuming the flange is in good condition there is no reason to remove it. However, it must be securely anchored with no movement. I always advise the flange be on top of the finished floor as this is what my plumbing code states. Sometimes this is not practical though. You can purchase plastic extension rings for the flange. Avoid stacking multiple bowl waxes or using jumbo rings- these are sub par methods to overcome a low flange.

sullijos

In that case, what would be the best way to get from not having hardibacker and tile down with an existing flange, to having the backer and tile down with the flange sitting on top? It seems as though I would have to remove it, at least temporarily until the backer and tile is down.

Alan

You'll have to remove it yes, if you want the flange on top, and extend the pipe to where it needs to be.

The problem I have with setting it on top is that most of the time these days, they're using less porcelain on the base or something, and the bowl will sit down completely on the flange before coming within 1/4" of the floor.

Seems to ME personally that your wax seal is more likely to stay intact if the toilet is sitting on a nice solid uniform base. I prefer flange extension kit or more wax, personally.

That said, he is correct about the code. Code says flange should be above finished floor, however I have a feeling that may be something that changes in the near future.

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sullijos

Thanks for the info. If I go the route of the flange extension, is that just another ring I install over the existing one? Also, how do I replace the mounting bolts? They are stripped and rusted. Then again the existing flange is also rusted. I believe it must be the original from 1964-ish.

TheEplumber

Here's an image I found on google images. "toilet flange extender". This is just one type. Try to get the flange at least flush with the new tile.
Remove and replace the bolts with new ones. Should be pretty simple. They have a tee shaped head so they should slide out of the flange slot.

Attached Images

 

Mark Potter

I wouldn't consider keeping the old flange if it's that old.
What bolts are rusty? Johny bolts or the bolts that hold the flange down?




This type should work as replacement flange will give you the correct hight.

sullijos

The Johnny bolts are the rusted ones. I had to use a hacksaw blade just to get the nut off to remove the toilet. I would like to remove the flange but my big issue is that it won't some off. Are cast iron flanges typically bonded or soldered to the drain pipe if that is also cast iron? I don't want to get too aggressive and end up damaging the drain pipe. Any recommendations?