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Old 04-07-2009, 02:26 PM   #1
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Replacing sink drain tube


I just recently replaced a sink drain "neck" - the brass or metal part that connects to the P trap. I had a few issues with leaks that I resolved but just want to make sure I followed the right steps as this was my first attempt:

1) Used pipe dope on all exterior threads, without the pipe dope I had leaks from the main drain nut threads and from the drain stopper threads.

2) Applied silicone latex to the top of the rubber gasket to make a better seal.

3) Applied plumbers putty to the underside of the flange.

4) Tightened the drain nut as tight as I could with my hand, then turned it with a wrench until it felt secure but not over tight.

5) Silicone caulked all possible outside joints that could leak. Looks like slimer went to town here. One of the outside joints without caulking was sweating(the part that includes the drain stopper and swivels).

6) Waited approximately 24 hours and checked for leaks, none so far.


I compared this work to the other sinks in the house and they all seemed to have tonnes of silicone on the outside joints. I've seen others that don't need this. Are sink drains like garden hoses and you have to keep tweaking until its just right?

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Old 04-10-2009, 06:41 PM   #2
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Replacing sink drain tube


I worked in residential construction and commercial maintenance for 14 years and specialized in plumbing repairs. In all that time I have never seen someone caulk all of the plumbing joints? It sounds to me like the person who originally installed your plumbing did not know what they were doing, so they tried to take a shortcut by gooping them up with caulk.

The pipe dope and plumbers putty sounds fine, but in the future I would avoid coating everything with caulk, aside from being messy it, you just shouldn't need it. If you went through the steps and still had leaks, something probably wasn't tight enough and caulk would not be the answer.
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Last edited by fireball11; 04-10-2009 at 06:42 PM. Reason: misspelling
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:14 PM   #3
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Replacing sink drain tube


Most of the piping umder any sink is secured by slip nuts. There is a rubber or neoprene gasket inside the nut that makes the seal. Plumbers putty is used under the drain flange inside the sink. No sealant should be needed anywhere else. Plumbers can't wait 24 hours to see if their job will leak. As soon as the job is installed, it is tested for leaks.
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:13 AM   #4
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Replacing sink drain tube


lose the caulk. when you have to replace any of that stuff the caulk will just make it more difficult. The only people that I know that use caulk on sink drains are the ones that don't know what they are doing and trying to hide thier mistakes
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:26 PM   #5
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Replacing sink drain tube


Would it be beneficial to use caulk around the drain opening of the sink and on the rubber gasket to form a better seal?

I've been looking at every drain I come across and the installations vary from covered in caulk to teflon tape galore, or nice and clean with no traces of any sealant.

Also, the part that I referred to that leaked unless caulked was the very bottom pipe. You can turn it by hand and it never loosens or tightens and I could only get it to stop leaking with caulk and the only other method I've seen so far is teflon tape, and I'm not sure how they got that bottom pipe off to apply the tape.


Last edited by n0c7; 04-14-2009 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:51 AM   #6
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Replacing sink drain tube


Quote:
Originally Posted by n0c7 View Post
Would it be beneficial to use caulk around the drain opening of the sink and on the rubber gasket to form a better seal?

I've been looking at every drain I come across and the installations vary from covered in caulk to teflon tape galore, or nice and clean with no traces of any sealant.

Also, the part that I referred to that leaked unless caulked was the very bottom pipe. You can turn it by hand and it never loosens or tightens and I could only get it to stop leaking with caulk and the only other method I've seen so far is teflon tape, and I'm not sure how they got that bottom pipe off to apply the tape.

If your talking about the 11/4 tube all you have to do is remove it put pipe dope on it (tape or teflon liquid) and tightened it up hand tight. If it does not tighten you might have a defective pipe. You can go to any plumbing supply and get a new one if it still doesn't tighten then the threads in side the pop up mechanism may be stripped you will need to get a new one of those also. If this is a new fixture they should replace it for free. caulking it will only be a tempary fix.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:03 PM   #7
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Replacing sink drain tube


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Originally Posted by al's sewer View Post
If your talking about the 11/4 tube all you have to do is remove it put pipe dope on it (tape or teflon liquid) and tightened it up hand tight. If it does not tighten you might have a defective pipe. You can go to any plumbing supply and get a new one if it still doesn't tighten then the threads in side the pop up mechanism may be stripped you will need to get a new one of those also. If this is a new fixture they should replace it for free. caulking it will only be a tempary fix.
No, the spot I'm talking about is this, it has no threads:

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Old 04-16-2009, 07:16 AM   #8
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Replacing sink drain tube


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No, the spot I'm talking about is this, it has no threads:

Is that a metal drain. If so I have never seen one without threads. Not saying it isn't or that they don't make them I personally never seen one. I have seen them on plastic. If that is the case and it is a solid peice then I would say that silicone caulk is not the only way to go but probably the cheapest unless you want to go out and just buy a new p o plug assembly if its a new faucet take back to your supplier and get them to give you a new one, as that one is defective.

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