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Old 05-31-2011, 10:27 PM   #16
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Replacing Shower Valve


Thanks eplumber. I'm gonna try to drain out the pipes this coming weekend to put in the copper x pex fitting. I'll also add the copper piping to the sprout.

No one replied about the teflon threaded tape used to connect the pex joints to the valve. Should I use a pipe sealant here?

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Old 05-31-2011, 10:47 PM   #17
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Replacing Shower Valve


I was taught to use pipe dope and tape. And all the journeyman I work with use both. But if you have water tested your valve it and doesn't leak then I'd leave it alone. A lot of people seem to use only tape.
When trying to solder the adapters on, open a faucet to help drain the water. It might be enough to keep the water out of your risers.
Also make sure your valve is set to the right depth and secured well in the wall before you install the wallboard.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:49 PM   #18
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Replacing Shower Valve


Those connections on the shower valve look like a union or compression fitting, if so then you should not use teflon or past on the joint.
You should install an access panel on the other side of the wall so you have access to the valve and fittings in the future.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:49 AM   #19
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Replacing Shower Valve


Nick,

I believe you're referring to the PEX clamps. Why do you suggest not using teflon in this case and I'm not sure what you mean by "past on the point."

The other side of the wall is the main wall of my bedroom. Our TV is actually there. If anything, I'll have to cut in the drywall in the future for this access.

Thanks

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