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Old 05-29-2011, 10:23 PM   #1
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Replacing Shower Valve


Hi all,

I am in the midst of a shower renovation project. I've tore down the old wall towers and removed the old shower faucet. I started to sweating the new valve into the pipe system but ran into some leaks due to my lack of soldering skills.

Would the following work from the cold and hot line?

Using a 1/2" sharkbyte to Male adapter to the water line. Then from a Female to Female 3/8 compression faucet line to the shower valve? This would be the same faucet lines for bathroom and kitchen faucets. Would anyone object against this idea? Would the water pressure be less then if I went 1/2" copper piping?





I spent the whole day soldering and just grew frustrated with nothing gained so far...

Thanks ahead of time.

[Edit]
I just saw the following online. It's a 1/2" with valve line. Would this do?:


Last edited by suncowiam; 05-29-2011 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:57 PM   #2
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Replacing Shower Valve


I would avoid putting push fittings in walls because the rubber seal in them will eventually fail, Although it might be 10 years or more.... If you can install an access panel on the other side of the wall from the shower valve then you at least have access to the fittings when they fail, also, there should be no 3/8 fittings, they should all be 1/2 inch.

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Old 05-29-2011, 11:10 PM   #3
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Replacing Shower Valve


Thanks Nick,

I won't have a feasible access to the valve after I'm done tiling.

I think I'm just going to go with all Sharkbite joints and possibly PEX piping to save myself soldering mistakes. It's a learning curve that I really don't need to deal with at the moment. Won't be soldering again any time soon.

Thanks again!
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:29 PM   #4
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Replacing Shower Valve


There is a big debate as to whether or not push fittings should be used inside a wall. I'm not a plumber, but I wouldn't. Then again, I've had lots of practice soldering lately....
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:37 PM   #5
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Replacing Shower Valve


Go rent the pex crimpers for a few hours and you will not have to worry about the possibility of the shark bite failing.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:24 AM   #6
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Please consider using pex and the crimp tool as Doug suggested. Flex lines will be to constrictive and should not be concealed. Try to solder copper x pex adapters and the crimp the rest. If you must, use sharkbites at the copper to pex connection only.
Do you have tub spout too? It needs to be piped with copper and soldered joints- not pex.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:49 AM   #7
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Replacing Shower Valve


What do you mean: "Try to solder copper x pex adapters"?

I do have a tub spout. I saw the crimp tool at home depot. They were so expensive.

I didn't realize Sharkbite will eventually fail. You guys have had bad experience with sharkbite?

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:12 PM   #8
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Replacing Shower Valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by suncowiam View Post
What do you mean: "Try to solder copper x pex adapters"?

I do have a tub spout. I saw the crimp tool at home depot. They were so expensive.

I didn't realize Sharkbite will eventually fail. You guys have had bad experience with sharkbite?

Thanks
If your existing lines are copper and you want to convert to pex, you can use a pex x copper adapter and solder it to the copper pipes. With that done, you can run pex. At the valve use a MIP x pex adapter (assuming your valve is threaded)
Do your tub spout in soldered copper or galv. pipe. Do not use sharkbites there.
You want it as rigid as possible or your spout will flop around
Shark bite all of the valve if you want(not the spout). I don't have any real beef with them. I just don't trust them
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:43 PM   #9
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Thanks!

Bought a PEX crimper and my progress has been much much better.
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Old 05-31-2011, 02:41 PM   #10
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Replacing Shower Valve


I just finished yesterday and hopefully could get a review of what I've done. I just want to ensure that this will last an eternity as i will installing the cement boards and tiles soon.

Quick comments:
* Used sharkbite coupling from copper to pex.
* Pex to valve. Pex to copper for sprout and shower extension.
* I only used thread tape for the four joints attached to the thread. I'm a little concerned here. Could this fail over time? Do I need to add anything here?

Thanks!






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Old 05-31-2011, 05:30 PM   #11
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Replacing Shower Valve


I would have used sweat adapters where you went from copper to PEX in the supply lines and for the riser to shower and the tub spout.
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:35 PM   #12
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You still used sharkbites where they won't be accessible....I agree with rjniles using the Pex adapters on supply lines.In your instruction manual does it not say to NOT use a crimped Pex connection for the tub spout?That's been known to cause pressure and restriction issues.Such that water won't stop trickling out of your showerhead.
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:52 PM   #13
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The reason I used the sharkbite is because I couldn't completely stop the water flow from the pipes even after shutting off the main valve. This made soldering very hard with the water. I just heard a tip that I should also turn off the valve off from the water heater. =)

You're right about the manual saying not to use PEX on the drop to the sprout. Darn. I missed that part. Thanks
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:00 PM   #14
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if the water is a slow drip you can shove a small piece of whitebread (not wheat or whole grain) in the pipe then solder. The water will dissolve the bread.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:53 PM   #15
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Replacing Shower Valve


Quote:
Originally Posted by suncowiam View Post
You're right about the manual saying not to use PEX on the drop to the sprout. Darn. I missed that part. Thanks
Refer to post #6
I wouldn't be overly concerned with the sharkbites- not ideal, but not yet proven to fail either.
Other then the tub spout- nice job!

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