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Old 07-16-2008, 04:37 PM   #16
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replacing old galvanized drains


Pro vent is a brand of air admittance valve. Do a search on them. It allows you to vent without going through the roof. You have to leave them acessable though.
As for increaseing to 3" it depends on your local codes, I can't answer that for you.

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Old 07-16-2008, 11:52 PM   #17
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replacing old galvanized drains


well i was advised by my uncle who has been working on houses for years to leave the existing drains, just scrape out as much rust as possible from the drains and attach pvc. well i couldn't resist the urge to try and screw out the remaining piece of drain to replace it with a new one. and when i tried the whole thing just ripped apart. so now i am going to have to cut below the hub and replace everything above with pvc. so now i have some new questions.

1. should i remove the whole stack above where i cut at one time, or cut it into multiple pieces that are easier to carry, and in what order should i make these cuts.

2. does the snap cutter need to twist the whole way around the pipe, or just a portion. if i cut a hole in the one wall bellow it to get at it, is that enough space or do i have to cut out the wall on the other side and the studs around it so the tool can get all the way around?

3. when i install the pvc, how do i determine the correct height for the toilet drain?

thanks

Last edited by drewhart; 07-16-2008 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:10 PM   #18
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replacing old galvanized drains


Quote:
Originally Posted by drewhart View Post
well i was advised by my uncle who has been working on houses for years to leave the existing drains, just scrape out as much rust as possible from the drains and attach pvc. well i couldn't resist the urge to try and screw out the remaining piece of drain to replace it with a new one. and when i tried the whole thing just ripped apart. so now i am going to have to cut below the hub and replace everything above with pvc. so now i have some new questions.

1. should i remove the whole stack above where i cut at one time, or cut it into multiple pieces that are easier to carry, and in what order should i make these cuts.

2. does the snap cutter need to twist the whole way around the pipe, or just a portion. if i cut a hole in the one wall bellow it to get at it, is that enough space or do i have to cut out the wall on the other side and the studs around it so the tool can get all the way around?

3. when i install the pvc, how do i determine the correct height for the toilet drain?

thanks
You are not totally sunk. If you can get the rest of the galvanized nipple out of there you can use the existing cast iron fitting.

1. If you are going to cut the stack out from the bottom all the way out of the roof you're going to have to do it in sections. Start at the top obviously. Remember you're working with a heavy cutter and heavy pipe. If you're going to section it get a riseing clamp in the attic and something to hold the section immidatly above where you are cutting in case a hub pulls out.

2. The snap cutter goes all the way around the pipe. Take a look at one and you'll see the chain that wraps around it.

3. Ideally the toilet flange should sit directly on the finished floor. Flush with the finished floor is ok, you will have to use a thick wax ring though. You have to figure out how thick your finished floor is going to be and set your flange accordingly.


If you don't feel you can handle doing this I'd call a plumber.
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Old 07-20-2008, 01:14 PM   #19
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replacing old galvanized drains


i did cut all the stack out. it worked easy with the snap cutter. i had to remove the section of the wall along the drain though in the livingroom. i m starting to put the new stuff in now. i had to use a 3'' toilet drain in order to have the flange low enough for the floor.

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