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Old 11-18-2013, 07:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Actually they have to bond across where you place the Shark Bites, since the plastic in the fittings do not allow the piping to be a continuous section out to the meter, if they have Copper all the way out from the house.
You recommended the Shark Bite in post #4?

Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
I would though change out the Gate at the bottom, go with a 1/4 turn Ball valve.
He's got a 1/4 ball for the main. It's at the bottom of the pic.


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Old 11-18-2013, 07:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by corsulian View Post
Hi all-

I'm looking for confirmation that I have a solid plan for replacing a length of pipe.

My plan:
  1. Shut off main and drain Close all faucets once the over head lines are drained- this will airlock any remaining water
    use a length of 1/4" tubing or something similar to get the water out of the lower section- push it down the pipe and pull back while you have your thumb over the end
  2. Temporarily unstrap the grounding cable from the length to be replaced
  3. Remove paint at spots where I'll make my cuts have fun with this- it's hard to get off- but you need to
  4. Take an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade to the section I'm removing Don't let the pipe pinch your blade
  5. File the ends and ream the interior of the pipes
  6. Sand the ends of the existing pipe and the ends of the new pipe and the collars
  7. Apply flux to all joining spots use sparingly- you only need a thin coating- too much and it will run down the pipe- the molten solder will follow where ever the flux goes
  8. Assemble in place Use a repair coupling on one end as suggested earlier- besure it is centered on the joint
  9. Solder the four "joints"
  10. Wipe with rag be sure the solder has set before wiping or the joint will crack
  11. Restrap grounding cable A must
  12. Turn on main and hope
Good luck!


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