Replacing lead toilet drain and flange

klondiker

The floor around the old toilet flange is completely rotten and cannot hold screws for the flange. The flange is steel, however in cutting the floor open the two feet of 4 inch drain is not cast iron. Actually, I accidentally cut into this pipe while opening the floor and is seems to be lead (very soft and less than 1/8 inch thick). It is formed as one piece from the toilet flange, into a 90 degree bend and runs horizontally about two feet and T's into a cast iron vertical sewer drain/stack. Tapping along the drain, there seems to be a more solid piece about 1 1/2 inches coming out of the T, like a nipple, and the 'lead' pipe is over top of this. Likely this harder (CI ?) 'nipple' adds strength for the joint. The lead lip of the lead pipe has come loose from the floor flange, but possible could be tapped back around the flange and an expandable new plastic flange installed over top, after a new piece of sub-floor is installed.
My preference is to cut the lead pipe at the end of the solid 'nipple' at the T , install a Fernco and continue with ABS to a new ABS floor flange. The Fernco would go over the remaining piece of lead and be supported by the harder CI or whatever it is, beneath the lead. Is this possible and if so, would this joint leak being a horizontal fitting. What would be the proper Fernco to use?

klondiker

The other thing to mention is the piece from the floor flange to the 90 bend is short and not very close to round. It's too soft to hold a Fernco and not round enough either. It would simply collapse. It may likely not even be round enough for an internal expandable toilet flange.

jaydevries

better off drilling lead out of cast hub pull lead and okum rope out with needle nose visegrips clean out hub with wire wheel brush and use a donut "made by tyseal or fernco" that slips into hub and then slip plastic pipe into donut run up to toilet

bob22

goodadviceandalldonewithoutpuncuationeecummingswou ldhavebeenproud!

klondiker

Thx jaydevries, but I checked local suppliers and only the outer collars are available here.

jaydevries

event the box stores carry them

klondiker

Too bad this project is in northern Canada with a limited choice of supplies. Suppliers, including 'the' box stores, likes the Fernco coupling and no other choices. I've attached two photos and the close-up shows a 'bulge' under the lead pipe. I've reviewed several other posts regarding this subject and it looks as if the 'stiffener' under the lead pipe would be a brass ferrule. If I go with a coupler and cut the lead, there is debate whether to clamp over the remaining lead or remove the lead down to the ferrule. Any thoughts or experience with this? Also, am I correct in that the 'bulge' should be cut off in order for the coupler to seal. That would leave less than an inch, but the coupler's clamp is at the end anyway.
The other photo shows the brass flange removed and it seems the flange should have been soldered onto the lead lip of the drain. True or false? This likely was the initial cause of the toilet leaking - if the two parts came loose? I can get a new brass flange, but no donut - go figure. It looks as if wiping lead to install a new flange is a craft and not a normal diy so that option is not doable. Other post also say that plastic flanges with expandable rubber collars do not work on/in lead pipes as the lead also expands with the rubber. Any thoughts or products on that one? The other resort is to have a friend buy and mail up a donut for 'plan A'.

Thx again

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jaydevries

HUH order it online from home depot or have it transferred in

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing/h_...perSkuId=20291
6318

ok other option remove all like explain before then slide pvc in to hub repack with oakum , rap pour rope around pipe melt lead pour in and then set the lead

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NednRKyy2Dg