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-   -   Replace toilet water shutoff valve (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/replace-toilet-water-shutoff-valve-11548/)

abastin 09-14-2007 04:44 PM

Replace toilet water shutoff valve
 
The nylon coupling nut cracked on the toilet inlet valve connection. The connection tube is integral to the valve body. This style valve is no longer available in my locality so the replacement nut is not carried either. The water supply is copper. I expect to find a compression fitting under the valve. I have not been able to remove the old valve and am leery to keep trying without more information. I would appreciate all advice about how to remove this valve so I can install a modern style that takes a braided toilet connector tube. Thanks so much.

Mike Swearingen 09-15-2007 02:29 AM

Your toilet shut-off valve (1/2"-to-3/8") on the 1/2" copper pipe should be compatable with a standard flexible toilet connector with a 3/8" self-sealing nut on one end (on shut-off valve) with a plastic nut for the bottom of the tank inlet valve on the other.
You shouldn't need to replace the shut-off valve itself unless it's leaking and the leak cannot be repaired. If it is a compression fitting shut-off valve, the easiest way to change those out if necessary, usually is to use the old existing nut and brass ferrule ring on the pipe with the new valve.
The ferrule itself seals the compression fitting, not the threads, so if it leaks a bit after installation, you can smear clear silicone or pipe compound on the ring or wrap it with teflon tape on the ring to seal it better.
Good Luck!
Mike

aulii1 09-27-2007 12:25 AM

Mike,

I have a similar problem. I attempted to do what you described using the old nut and brass ferrule, but the durn thing continues to leak. I purchase a new valve assembly, but I can't seem to remove the old ferrule and nut from the copper pipe. Any suggestions short of calling in a pro? Thanks.

aulii

NateHanson 09-27-2007 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aulii1 (Post 65043)
Mike,

I have a similar problem. I attempted to do what you described using the old nut and brass ferrule, but the durn thing continues to leak. I purchase a new valve assembly, but I can't seem to remove the old ferrule and nut from the copper pipe. Any suggestions short of calling in a pro? Thanks.

aulii

Cut off the last 1/2" of pipe, just below the ferrule. Then install a new one with the new compression nut and valve.

Or buy a soldered valve, and sweat it on - no more leaks! :)

aulii1 09-27-2007 12:39 AM

Nate,

There isn't much space to work with. I can't move the nut far enough back along the copper pipe to expose the ferrule - the nut and ferrule are pretty much up against the wall. Any alternatives? Thanks.

aulii

NateHanson 09-27-2007 12:44 AM

Yuck. Umm. . . . .

I'm not sure what to do, short of putting a hole in the wall, and sweating on a valve with a chromed pipe extension on it.

aulii1 09-27-2007 12:48 AM

Nate,

I think I'll call a plumber. The water has been off all day, and my daughter is getting impatient :wink:. Thanks for your suggestions.

aulii

Mike Swearingen 09-27-2007 05:21 AM

Compression fittings are sealed by the ferrule ring, not the threads. Smear clear silicone caulk on the old ferrule ring and tighten up the old nut. Give it a little time to cure before turning onthe water pressure. That will seal them every time.
Mike

aulii1 09-28-2007 12:08 AM

Mike,

Thanks for your input. My daughter said the plumber ($295.00 due to emergency call!!!) used the old nut and ferrule to seal the leak. She said she was reluctant to look over his shoulder, so didn't know exactly what he did, but I suspect it was something similar to what you suggested here. You know, I tried to tighten the nut after applying teflon tape to the threads- didn't have any silicon - the ferrule wasn't accesible- with no success. Maybe I didn't tighten the nut enough. Well, live and learn, which is the purpose of this forum, I think. She said he had it done in less than 10 minutes. I'm in the wrong line of work :(

aulii

Mike Swearingen 09-28-2007 03:37 PM

You don't need to put anything on the threads of a compression fitting, as noted. Tightening the nut on the ferrule is what seals it.
If the pipe and old ferrule have gotten a little out of round (which they usually do when really tightened), then the old ferrule just needs to be re-sealed with something like silicone caulk to prevent it from leaking.
Sorry about your daughter's plumbing bill....I heard that loud ripping sound, too.
In any case, now you know what to do, so that that doesn't happen again on something like this.
Good Luck!
Mike

aulii1 09-28-2007 11:03 PM

Mike,

Thanks again for your input - and to the others who contributed also. Well, at least next time I'll know what to do, as will my son in law, so between us we should be able to save a couple of bucks :wink:

aulii

TinyElvis 01-06-2008 09:32 PM

Hi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Swearingen (Post 65072)
Compression fittings are sealed by the ferrule ring, not the threads. Smear clear silicone caulk on the old ferrule ring and tighten up the old nut. Give it a little time to cure before turning onthe water pressure. That will seal them every time.
Mike

I installed a new shut-off valve today and am experiencing something similar. Around which part of the ferule should I smear the silicon? Just around the ring or down where it comes in contact with the pipe as well?

Thanks.

jpplumber 01-06-2008 09:39 PM

I always put pipe dope on the ferule before I install a new angle stop and especially if I am reusing the old ferule. Some of the new 1/4 turn stops don't touch the ferule when slipped onto the pipe so if that is what you have you need to tighten it enough to slide the ferule on the pipe to make contact with the new valve.

lito 06-09-2008 01:12 PM

Chrome extension and damaged valve
 
The toilet has a chrome extension that seems to be one piece with the shut off valve. See picture below.

The valve is broken. Damaged beyond repair. I wish to replace it with a new 1/4 turn ball valve.
Can I remove the broken valve only? Do I need to separate chrome extension from the copper supply? How?

Thanks,

Lito

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/p...6_front500.jpg

James494 02-14-2011 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Swearingen (Post 65325)
You don't need to put anything on the threads of a compression fitting, as noted. Tightening the nut on the ferrule is what seals it.
If the pipe and old ferrule have gotten a little out of round (which they usually do when really tightened), then the old ferrule just needs to be re-sealed with something like silicone caulk to prevent it from leaking.
Sorry about your daughter's plumbing bill....I heard that loud ripping sound, too.
In any case, now you know what to do, so that that doesn't happen again on something like this.
Good Luck!
Mike

Hello Mike,

I have the exact same problem that aulii had. Basically, I cannot move the nut closer to the wall in order to see the ferrule in order to smear silicone on it, and on top of this the pipe is out of round. With this being the case, what would you suggest that I do?

Right now I have the new valve turned off and there is a slow drip coming from it.


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