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Old 12-27-2011, 10:43 PM   #1
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


We're buying a bank owned property and the Home Inspector flagged this Saddle Clamp under the kitchen sink for a couple of reasons:

1. He hates saddle clamps.
2. It's the wrong side of the water shut off.
3. He really hates saddle clamps.



So - as we've not moved in yet and I don't have a chance to inspect this piece of plumbing myself, I'm assuming that clamp is on copper pipe right? Which basically means there is a hole in the copper pipe about 1/2" from the wall. Which to me sounds like a bit of a nightmare. How exactly would I sweat a longer piece of pipe to this mess and was this done anywhere near correctly in the first place?

My plumbing experience is somewhat limited, but I have sweated copper before and am somewhat familiar with PVC, so I think I'm confident enough to have a go at a DIY fix! (Don't all calls to professional plumbers start out with a story like that? )

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Old 12-27-2011, 10:50 PM   #2
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


Few Options:

1) If it's not leaking, leave it alone.

2) Put another saddle valve on the other side of the shut-off, which really accomplishes nothing.

3) Cut the pipe behind that saddle valve. New shut off, more pipe, new saddle valve, fitting for hose.

4) Cut the pipe behind that saddle valve. New dual-outlet shut-off. (assuming the saddle valve outlet is of a size that's available)



As I said, the second choice is really not even a choice...no point in it.

If I was dead set on replacing it, I would go with 4 as long as the sizes matched up.


Remember, just because the home inspector flagged it doesn't mean you have to do it. You can just leave it until it causes a problem.

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Old 12-27-2011, 10:57 PM   #3
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


Depend on how far it sticks out from the wall. If there's enough room to cut it off and still be far enough to be safe to solder on a Tee and a short piece of copper pipe so you can add a double shut off valve.
If not you have to bust out the sheetrock and redo it inside the wall with a new elbow and a longer stub out.
You do know you can buy one shut off valve that would have connections for both lines with two differant shut offs right?
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:33 PM   #4
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
You do know you can buy one shut off valve that would have connections for both lines with two differant shut offs right?
I do now! Thanks guys. I want to be proactive and do this before it floods the kitchen while we're on vacation.
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:33 AM   #5
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


I hate saddle valves also if something goes wrong you can't shut the water off you have to run to the main wherever that is to shut it off I would replace it ASAP. I think the inspector was a little picky but I also thought it was a good thing to point out.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:14 AM   #6
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


If you can cut the copper far enough from wall where you can sweat a coupling on there covering up the hole pierced in pipe go that route,then buy a stop valve with connections for 2 3/8" lines and hook your ice maker to 1 of them and faucet to other
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:42 AM   #7
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


I agree with plummen with one exception I would buy two valves so I could isolate either the faucet or the ice maker individually.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:46 AM   #8
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


that would also work
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:59 AM   #9
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Replace Saddle Clamp?


http://www.brasscraft.com/Products.aspx?Id=204

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